Siam Black Diamond Earrings

A pair of antique black diamond earrings made in Siam (Thailand), dating from the mid-19th century.

Each gold earring features 25 flat cut Thai black diamonds in rubover, closed-back gold settings. These elegant tiered earrings are crafted in 14K gold and feature areas of both sectioned and interlinked components designed to move, swish and glisten. They display traditional Southeast Asian techniques including granulation and riveted tier sections.

These types of earrings are modelled from the jewels worn in the Royal Courts of Bangkok. This particular pair of earrings would have been made for a wealthy aristocratic woman, or possibly a lower ranking female member of the extended Royal family. In the 19th century, the Kings of Siam were particularly polygamous and had a joint total of 124 wives and 159 royal children, each requiring their own bejewelled regalia and courtly dress jewels, bestowed to them by the King according to their rank.

The gold is also stamped with a French import mark for 14K gold from when it was later brought into the country. The earrings weigh a total of 5.88 grams. Each earring measures approx 32mm x 21mm x 8mm.

Similar published examples can be found in Richter’s ‘The Jewellery of Southeast Asia’ (2000, p. 94-95).

現在のタイにあたるシャム王国の金細工師たちは、アジアでも屈指の個性あふれるジュエリーを生み出しました。王宮やバンコクの貴族社会のために作られたこれらの品は、儀式の場で身に着けられ、19世紀を通じて貴族の家同士で贈り合われたほか、重要な訪問者や外国の要人にも贈られました。

シャムのジュエリーは高純度の金で作られ、豊かな赤や緑のエナメルが施されることが多く、繊細な花の枝模様が裏面からリング腕の全周にわたって描かれています。石はシャム独特の背の高い尖った爪で留められ、それぞれのリングに彫刻的、ほとんど建築的とも言える存在感を与えています。ルビー、サファイア、ダイヤモンドが好まれ、段状のモンドップ・リングのような最上の品は、失われた宮廷文化の希少な生き証人です。

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