Antique Gold Navaratna Ring
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An exquisite and unusual example of a talismanic ‘navaratna’, this ring is crafted in high-karat 22K gold. It was probably made in India or Indonesia and dates from the 18th to 19th centuries. Known as a ‘navaratna’ or ‘nine-gem’ ring, it features a variety of precious gemstones arranged in a floral pattern, each representing one of the nine cosmic influences from Hindu astrology.
At the centre is a ruby, symbolising the Sun, surrounded by diamonds (Venus), pearls (Moon), red coral (Mars), hessonite (Rahu, the ascending lunar node), sapphires (Saturn), cat’s eye chrysoberyl (Ketu, the descending lunar node), yellow sapphire (Jupiter), and emerald (Mercury). This combination of nine gems has been held sacred and royal in many Asian cultures for centuries, and this piece is a beautiful testament to that tradition.
The ring’s filigree work is intricate and adds an elegant dimension to the design. The bezel, measuring 28mm x 20mm, sits flat and comfortably wraps around the finger. Each gemstone is set in closed-back bezel settings, while the hollow construction of the bezel allows for lightweight wear without compromising durability. The 3mm wide band provides a secure fit in UK size O (US size 7), and the piece has a total weight of 6.37 grams.
According to Oppi Untracht in Traditional Jewelry of India (1997), the creation of a traditional navaratna ring is a meticulous process. Stones are first blessed by a priest and then set in gold by a skilled goldsmith at specific, auspicious times for each planetary influence. Properly following this process can take over a year, reflecting the spiritual and cultural importance of these rings.
A rare and beautiful piece, this navaratna ring not only carries deep cultural significance but is also a remarkable work of art.
An exquisite and unusual example of a talismanic ‘navaratna’, this ring is crafted in high-karat 22K gold. It was probably made in India or Indonesia and dates from the 18th to 19th centuries. Known as a ‘navaratna’ or ‘nine-gem’ ring, it features a variety of precious gemstones arranged in a floral pattern, each representing one of the nine cosmic influences from Hindu astrology.
At the centre is a ruby, symbolising the Sun, surrounded by diamonds (Venus), pearls (Moon), red coral (Mars), hessonite (Rahu, the ascending lunar node), sapphires (Saturn), cat’s eye chrysoberyl (Ketu, the descending lunar node), yellow sapphire (Jupiter), and emerald (Mercury). This combination of nine gems has been held sacred and royal in many Asian cultures for centuries, and this piece is a beautiful testament to that tradition.
The ring’s filigree work is intricate and adds an elegant dimension to the design. The bezel, measuring 28mm x 20mm, sits flat and comfortably wraps around the finger. Each gemstone is set in closed-back bezel settings, while the hollow construction of the bezel allows for lightweight wear without compromising durability. The 3mm wide band provides a secure fit in UK size O (US size 7), and the piece has a total weight of 6.37 grams.
According to Oppi Untracht in Traditional Jewelry of India (1997), the creation of a traditional navaratna ring is a meticulous process. Stones are first blessed by a priest and then set in gold by a skilled goldsmith at specific, auspicious times for each planetary influence. Properly following this process can take over a year, reflecting the spiritual and cultural importance of these rings.
A rare and beautiful piece, this navaratna ring not only carries deep cultural significance but is also a remarkable work of art.
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