Mughal Gold and Diamond Ring
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From the Journal
Pavithra and Navaratna Rings: The Sacred Gold Rings of India
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A particularly beautiful and rare Indian gold ring dating from the 18th century (or slightly earlier); a jewel firmly rooted in the artistic traditions of the Mughal period and very likely made in Jaipur, one of the great centres of Mughal goldsmithing. The ring is crafted in exceptionally high karat gold, testing approximately 22–23K, as is typical of fine Indian jewellery of the period.Set at the centre is a large polki diamond slice - an early, flat cut style of diamond much prized in the Mughal world - mounted over reflective foil to enhance its warm, watery glow. The diamond (9 × 6 × 2 mm) sits within a rectangular box-shaped bezel (14 × 11 mm), framed by a border of deep, almost inky blue enamel that remains wonderfully rich in tone. Its interior inclusions are natural features of early Indian polki stones, not cracks.The underside of the bezel is a delight in itself: gently convex and intricately chased with crosshatched and foliate motifs, still carrying traces of vivid enamel in red, green, and blue - classic hallmarks of Mughal craftsmanship.This same decorative language continues onto the shoulders and the back of the band, where engraved leaf forms and remnants of enamel echo the courtly aesthetic of the period. The ring narrows to a 3 mm band at the back.A jewel of good weight for its size (6.62 g) and graceful proportion, offering a rare survival of Mughal enamelwork and diamond-setting at its most refined.UK size I½; US 4.5.
A particularly beautiful and rare Indian gold ring dating from the 18th century (or slightly earlier); a jewel firmly rooted in the artistic traditions of the Mughal period and very likely made in Jaipur, one of the great centres of Mughal goldsmithing. The ring is crafted in exceptionally high karat gold, testing approximately 22–23K, as is typical of fine Indian jewellery of the period.
Set at the centre is a large polki diamond slice - an early, flat cut style of diamond much prized in the Mughal world - mounted over reflective foil to enhance its warm, watery glow. The diamond (9 × 6 × 2 mm) sits within a rectangular box-shaped bezel (14 × 11 mm), framed by a border of deep, almost inky blue enamel that remains wonderfully rich in tone. Its interior inclusions are natural features of early Indian polki stones, not cracks.
The underside of the bezel is a delight in itself: gently convex and intricately chased with crosshatched and foliate motifs, still carrying traces of vivid enamel in red, green, and blue - classic hallmarks of Mughal craftsmanship.
This same decorative language continues onto the shoulders and the back of the band, where engraved leaf forms and remnants of enamel echo the courtly aesthetic of the period. The ring narrows to a 3 mm band at the back.
A jewel of good weight for its size (6.62 g) and graceful proportion, offering a rare survival of Mughal enamelwork and diamond-setting at its most refined.
UK size I½; US 4.5.
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