Edwardian Harlequin Pendant-Brooch

A beyond stunning antique Harlequin pendant brooch dating from the Edwardian period, circa 1905.

Crafted in 21K gold, with platinum settings to the diamonds, the jewel takes the form of a gem-set cluster framed by diamonds in an elegant scrolled openwork formation. Two articulated drops hang freely below, giving the piece life, movement and sparkle; it is a design that feels both playful and highly refined, perfectly in keeping with Edwardian taste.

The uppermost stone is a 5.35ct natural green zircon. Beneath this, to the left, sits a 5.1ct natural orange zircon, balanced to the right by a 5.1ct cushion-cut natural yellow sapphire from Sri Lanka. Suspended below are a 3.8ct natural purple sapphire, also from Sri Lanka, and a 6.2ct natural blue topaz. All of the coloured gemstones are natural, cushion cut, and have been analysed by GCS London; there are no indications of heating or treatment. Their open-backed claw settings allow light to pass freely through the stones and make cleaning straightforward.

Fourteen diamonds, all set in platinum, form the scrolling surround and delicate connecting elements. Their bright, white scintillation provides contrast to the saturated greens, oranges, yellows, lilacs and blues of the principal stones.

Jewels of this type are often referred to as “Harlequin” jewels; the name derives from the vividly coloured chequered costume of the Harlequin character of the Commedia dell’Arte tradition, popularised in the late 16th century. In jewellery, the term has long been used to describe pieces set with an array of different coloured gemstones, and it saw particular favour in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The piece is fitted with both a brooch pin and a hoop, allowing it to be worn as either a pendant or a brooch. Unmarked but testing as 21K gold with platinum. It weighs 11.4 grams and remains in exceptional condition, with hardly any signs of wear.

A remarkable Edwardian Harlequin jewel; vibrant, rare, and gemmologically significant.