19th Century Indian Swivel Ring
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From the Journal
Pavithra and Navaratna Rings: The Sacred Gold Rings of India
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A remarkable late 19th-century Indian swivel ring, crafted in high-karat gold and featuring an intricate hexagonal bezel that rotates to reveal two distinct engraved and diamond-set faces.The shoulders take the form of a pair of parrots, their eyes set with rubies - an important symbol in Indian jewellery, representing love and devotion. The goldwork is highly detailed, with each bird’s feathers carefully engraved, and the twisted hoop adds further dimension to the design.This form of ring is rooted in earlier Safavid jewellery, reflecting the strong Persianate influence on South Indian and Deccani decorative arts. A similar example, with zoomorphic shoulders, can be found in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (accession no. 2008.565). Additionally, comparable pieces have appeared at Christie’s (Indian & Islamic Works of Art, 2010, Lot 426) and Bonhams (Islamic and Indian Art, 2014, Lot 304). None of these example however, display a rotating swivel bezel - a truly remarkable feature!The hexagonal bezel measures 16 x 16 x 5mm and is set with foiled diamonds, creating a luminous effect in low light. The larger diamonds contain natural inclusions, with one showing a minor surface crack, though it remains securely set.Weighing a substantial 13.44 grams, this ring tests as 23K gold. UK size P (US size 7.5). A rare and historically significant piece of Indian jewellery.
A remarkable late 19th-century Indian swivel ring, crafted in high-karat gold and featuring an intricate hexagonal bezel that rotates to reveal two distinct engraved and diamond-set faces.
The shoulders take the form of a pair of parrots, their eyes set with rubies - an important symbol in Indian jewellery, representing love and devotion. The goldwork is highly detailed, with each bird’s feathers carefully engraved, and the twisted hoop adds further dimension to the design.
This form of ring is rooted in earlier Safavid jewellery, reflecting the strong Persianate influence on South Indian and Deccani decorative arts. A similar example, with zoomorphic shoulders, can be found in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (accession no. 2008.565). Additionally, comparable pieces have appeared at Christie’s (Indian & Islamic Works of Art, 2010, Lot 426) and Bonhams (Islamic and Indian Art, 2014, Lot 304). None of these example however, display a rotating swivel bezel - a truly remarkable feature!
The hexagonal bezel measures 16 x 16 x 5mm and is set with foiled diamonds, creating a luminous effect in low light. The larger diamonds contain natural inclusions, with one showing a minor surface crack, though it remains securely set.
Weighing a substantial 13.44 grams, this ring tests as 23K gold. UK size P (US size 7.5). A rare and historically significant piece of Indian jewellery.
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