South Indian Gold Navaratna Ring

A South Indian talismanic gold Navaratna ring dating from the early 20th century. 

A navratna is composed of nine gems that represent the nine cosmic influences from the Hindu system of astrology. This combination of nine gems has been regarded as sacred and royal in many Asian countries since ancient times. The ruby at the centre represents the sun, surrounded by diamond as Venus, pearl as the moon, red coral as Mars, hessonite as Ragu (the ascending lunar node), sapphire as Saturn, cat's eye chrysoberyl as Ketu (the descending lunar node), yellow sapphire as Jupiter and emerald as Mercury.

The gem-set cluster takes a floral form, and all of the gemstones are set in foiled, closed-back kundan settings. The ring is crafted in high-karat gold and the shoulders are decorated with a repoussé-work foliate design which tapers towards down the back of the shank.

UK size O 1/2, US size 7.5, 

The ring weighs 8.6 grams, and tests as 22K gold. The inside of the band is also stamped with ’916’ indicating 22K. The cluster face measures 22 x 20mm, whilst the band measures 3mm wide at the back. The largest stone, the ruby cabochon weighs approximately 0.86cts, whilst the smaller stones have a diameter of 4mm. The yellow gold has a warm patina, and the ring has a low profile to allow for comfortable wear..

According to Oppi Untracht in his book ‘Traditional Jewelry of India’ (1997), the proper construction of a navaratna ring can take a very long time, ‘before commissioning such a ring from a goldsmith, one first brings the selected stones to a priest, who blesses them. At an auspicious time, they are then given to a goldsmith who will set thing in high-quality gold (22 karat). According to orthodox practice, when the gold setting is ready, each of the stones corresponding to a planet is set in the correct order of priority and position, at a time auspicious for the planet. If this procedure is followed, the process might take more than a year to complete.’

印度拥有世界上最古老、最丰富的珠宝传统之一。在莫卧儿皇帝治下，宫廷珠宝匠将波斯的精致与印度的工艺相融合，其影响塑造了此后数个世纪的印度珠宝。我们所寻得的作品大多可追溯至 19 世纪，为王公家族与富有的赞助人所制，他们佩戴珠宝以彰显身份、表达虔诚并祈求庇护。

印度古董珠宝以高 K 金打造，通常为 20K 或更高，并采用昆丹（kundan）镶嵌工艺，将宝石压入纯金箔中。扁平的台面切工“polki”钻石衬以金箔，使其熠熠生辉；背面与边缘则饰以红、绿、白等明艳色彩的珐琅。宝石的选择既重其美，亦重其寓意，例如九宝（navaratna）汇集九颗宝石，代表九大天体。

请参阅我们的配送与退换页面。