Antique Swiss Enamel Necklace
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A rare antique Swiss enamel necklace dating to circa 1830-1840, an exquisite example of the brightly coloured enamel jewellery for which Swiss craftsmen were renowned in the early 19th century.The necklace is composed of 34 pillow-shaped links, each decorated on both sides with finely executed enamel floral motifs. The colours are particularly vibrant; robin’s egg blue, parakeet green and deep navy are combined with translucent red enamel, creating the lively palette typical of Swiss enamel work of this period.At the centre sits an elaborate enamelled panel set with a natural cushion-cut ruby, flanked by two small pearls within scrolling enamelled ornaments. A suspended drop continues the design, set with a small emerald framed by further enamel decoration.Jewellery of this type became highly fashionable among wealthy European travellers during the Grand Tour in the early 19th century. Swiss enamellers, particularly those working in the Jura region, were celebrated for their mastery of the technique; powdered glass fused onto gold at high temperatures to produce durable surfaces of remarkable colour and detail. These jewels were prized both as souvenirs and as small works of wearable art.The necklace is crafted in high karat gold testing approximately 19K and bears the French owl control mark, indicating that it was later imported into or sold in France with a minimum fineness standard of 18K gold.The clasp is cleverly concealed within the enamelled links, preserving the continuity of the design.Length: 41 cm (approx. 16 inches)Weight: 13.28 gramsRuby: approx. 5 × 4 × 2 mmEmerald: approx. 2.5 × 2.5 × 2 mmEach enamel link: approx. 4 × 5 mmComparable examples can be found in major museum collections, including the Victoria & Albert Museum (M.36-1962) and the Metropolitan Museum of Art (69.58.1–.6a–c), though our example is significantly more colourful.A rare and exceptional example of early 19th-century Swiss enamel jewellery, remarkable for both its colour and craftsmanship.
A rare antique Swiss enamel necklace dating to circa 1830-1840, an exquisite example of the brightly coloured enamel jewellery for which Swiss craftsmen were renowned in the early 19th century.
The necklace is composed of 34 pillow-shaped links, each decorated on both sides with finely executed enamel floral motifs. The colours are particularly vibrant; robin’s egg blue, parakeet green and deep navy are combined with translucent red enamel, creating the lively palette typical of Swiss enamel work of this period.
At the centre sits an elaborate enamelled panel set with a natural cushion-cut ruby, flanked by two small pearls within scrolling enamelled ornaments. A suspended drop continues the design, set with a small emerald framed by further enamel decoration.
Jewellery of this type became highly fashionable among wealthy European travellers during the Grand Tour in the early 19th century. Swiss enamellers, particularly those working in the Jura region, were celebrated for their mastery of the technique; powdered glass fused onto gold at high temperatures to produce durable surfaces of remarkable colour and detail. These jewels were prized both as souvenirs and as small works of wearable art.
The necklace is crafted in high karat gold testing approximately 19K and bears the French owl control mark, indicating that it was later imported into or sold in France with a minimum fineness standard of 18K gold.
The clasp is cleverly concealed within the enamelled links, preserving the continuity of the design.
Length: 41 cm (approx. 16 inches)
Weight: 13.28 grams
Ruby: approx. 5 × 4 × 2 mm
Emerald: approx. 2.5 × 2.5 × 2 mm
Each enamel link: approx. 4 × 5 mm
Comparable examples can be found in major museum collections, including the Victoria & Albert Museum (M.36-1962) and the Metropolitan Museum of Art (69.58.1–.6a–c), though our example is significantly more colourful.
A rare and exceptional example of early 19th-century Swiss enamel jewellery, remarkable for both its colour and craftsmanship.
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