19th Century Indian Necklace

A late 19th-century Indian gemstone necklace, dating to around 1890, composed of a continuous strand of natural seed pearls suspending a repeated sequence of gem-set gold mounts. The stones include cat’s-eye chrysoberyl, sapphire, ruby, citrine, garnet, turquoise, pearl, opal, and tourmaline, each set in open-backed collet mounts to allow maximum light and colour expression.

Each gem is finished with a delicate fringe of seed pearl tassels, creating gentle movement and surface texture against the luminous pearl ground. The necklace is strung with approximately 300 natural seed pearls, forming a refined yet vibrant contrast to the richly coloured gemstones. The gold mounts are crafted in high-karat gold, testing at approximately 22K, while the later antique barrel clasp tests as 18K.

The necklace has a repeated pattern of gemstones, in a navaratna style. Navaratna jewellery has deep cultural significance within the Indian subcontinent, traditionally associated with cosmic balance, protection, and prosperity. Each of the gemstones are believed to correspond to a celestial body, with the complete arrangement symbolising harmony and auspiciousness.

The necklace measures 41cm in length and weighs 11.61 grams. The gemstones range in size from approximately 3mm to 7 × 5mm. Condition is excellent, with all gemstones secure and tassels intact.

A vibrant and highly evocative example of late 19th-century Indian jewellery; rich in colour, symbolism, and presence.