Balinese Emerald and Diamond Ring
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From the Journal
Gold of the Gods: Ancient Javanese and Balinese Rings
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An unusual and highly sculptural antique emerald and diamond ring dating to the late 18th or early 19th century; probably Balinese in origin. The ring is formed as a substantial convex dome with a large foiled emerald cabochon to the centre, surrounded asymmetrically by rose cut diamonds set directly into the surface of the mount.Crafted in base metal overlaid with high-karat sheet gold, the ring has a hollow body typical of certain Southeast Asian jewels of the period, allowing for dramatic scale without excessive weight. The central emerald cabochon measures approximately 12 x 10 x 4mm (approx 3.5 carats) and displays the soft luminous depth associated with closed-back foiled settings.Foiling was widely used historically beneath gemstones to intensify colour and light reflection, particularly in candlelit settings. In this example, the emerald’s vivid green tone is enhanced by the reflective backing, while the small rose cut diamonds provide flashes of silver-white contrast across the textured gold surface.The ring measures approximately 15mm north to south and weighs 8.6 grams. Ring size P 1/2 (UK) / 7.75 (US).Condition is good overall for its age. The gilded surface shows expected wear and losses in places, contributing to the jewel’s excavated, timeworn character. The emerald remains secure, as do the diamonds. A remarkably atmospheric piece with a powerful visual presence; equally compelling worn traditionally or as an oversized thumb ring.
An unusual and highly sculptural antique emerald and diamond ring dating to the late 18th or early 19th century; probably Balinese in origin. The ring is formed as a substantial convex dome with a large foiled emerald cabochon to the centre, surrounded asymmetrically by rose cut diamonds set directly into the surface of the mount.
Crafted in base metal overlaid with high-karat sheet gold, the ring has a hollow body typical of certain Southeast Asian jewels of the period, allowing for dramatic scale without excessive weight. The central emerald cabochon measures approximately 12 x 10 x 4mm (approx 3.5 carats) and displays the soft luminous depth associated with closed-back foiled settings.
Foiling was widely used historically beneath gemstones to intensify colour and light reflection, particularly in candlelit settings. In this example, the emerald’s vivid green tone is enhanced by the reflective backing, while the small rose cut diamonds provide flashes of silver-white contrast across the textured gold surface.
The ring measures approximately 15mm north to south and weighs 8.6 grams. Ring size P 1/2 (UK) / 7.75 (US).
Condition is good overall for its age. The gilded surface shows expected wear and losses in places, contributing to the jewel’s excavated, timeworn character. The emerald remains secure, as do the diamonds. A remarkably atmospheric piece with a powerful visual presence; equally compelling worn traditionally or as an oversized thumb ring.
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