17th Century Gold Emerald Ring
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A fine example of a scarce emerald ring dating from the late 17th century, circa 1680. The ring was made in Western Europe (probably Spain) and truly encapsulates the beauty of the early Baroque period.
This rosette cluster ring, with its enamel inlayed underside, carved shoulders and ‘pie crust’ edges is typical of rings dating from the second half of the 17th century. The fervent use of emeralds in jewellery from this period typically indicates a Spanish origin, due to the rich abundance of these stones in the Spanish-controlled emerald mines in Colombia and Peru.
For a similar referenced example, see item 781 in the Koch Collection.
In the present example, a cluster of nine mixed cut emeralds are set in closed back cut-down collet settings. The gemstones are foil-backed to bring their lustre to their best quality. The underside of the bezel is fluted, the grooves inlayed with black enamel with white enamel dots, typical ornamentation of the 17th century. The shoulders are a later replacement, crafted in typical Baroque style with chased scrollwork leading to a smooth D-shaped shank.
UK ring size R 1/2, US size 9
The ring is of a good size and weighs 6 grams. The cluster head 14mm x 16mm on its longest axes. The ring tests as 14K gold, the band is also stamped with a later Austrian ‘cocker spaniel’ hallmark to indicate 585 (14K) gold and Vienna.
The ring remains in wearable condition despite being over 340 years old. The enamel to the fluted underside remains intact. The band shows evidence of resizing, some discolouration, cracks and solder from the historic band replacement, however it still remains sturdy and very wearable. Under loupe magnification there are some age-related abrasions to the facet junctions commensurate with age.
A truly remarkable survivor!
A fine example of a scarce emerald ring dating from the late 17th century, circa 1680. The ring was made in Western Europe (probably Spain) and truly encapsulates the beauty of the early Baroque period.
This rosette cluster ring, with its enamel inlayed underside, carved shoulders and ‘pie crust’ edges is typical of rings dating from the second half of the 17th century. The fervent use of emeralds in jewellery from this period typically indicates a Spanish origin, due to the rich abundance of these stones in the Spanish-controlled emerald mines in Colombia and Peru.
For a similar referenced example, see item 781 in the Koch Collection.
In the present example, a cluster of nine mixed cut emeralds are set in closed back cut-down collet settings. The gemstones are foil-backed to bring their lustre to their best quality. The underside of the bezel is fluted, the grooves inlayed with black enamel with white enamel dots, typical ornamentation of the 17th century. The shoulders are a later replacement, crafted in typical Baroque style with chased scrollwork leading to a smooth D-shaped shank.
UK ring size R 1/2, US size 9
The ring is of a good size and weighs 6 grams. The cluster head 14mm x 16mm on its longest axes. The ring tests as 14K gold, the band is also stamped with a later Austrian ‘cocker spaniel’ hallmark to indicate 585 (14K) gold and Vienna.
The ring remains in wearable condition despite being over 340 years old. The enamel to the fluted underside remains intact. The band shows evidence of resizing, some discolouration, cracks and solder from the historic band replacement, however it still remains sturdy and very wearable. Under loupe magnification there are some age-related abrasions to the facet junctions commensurate with age.
A truly remarkable survivor!
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