Antique Indian Navaratna Bracelet Pair
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From the Journal
Pavithra and Navaratna Rings: The Sacred Gold Rings of India
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A superb pair of antique late 19th to early 20th century Indian navaratna ‘pahunchaband’ bracelets, crafted in Jaipur circa 1900. These richly decorated bracelets were traditionally worn by women in Rajasthan, North-Western India, where gemstones were believed to hold astrological and talismanic significance.Each bracelet features the full navaratna—nine sacred gemstones—set in high-karat gold over a lac core, with every stone representing one of the cosmic influences from Hindu astrology. The large gemstones are foil-backed and arranged in a fixed order for maximum auspicious effect:
- Emerald – Mercury (Budha)
- Diamond – Venus (Shukra)
- Pearl – Moon (Candra)
- Yellow sapphire – Jupiter (Brihaspati)
- Garnet – Sun (Surya)
- Red coral – Mars (Mangala)
- Cat's eye – Descending Node (Ketu)
- Blue sapphire – Saturn (Shani)
- Hessonite garnet – Ascending Node (Rahu)
Each large gemstone is surrounded at the corners by small diamonds, set in a gold mount decorated with fine square crosshatching and green enamel. The reverse of each bracelet is beautifully finished with red Mughal-style poppy motifs in red, blue, and white guilloché enamel.The bracelets measure 19cm in length and 1.5cm in width, and weigh an impressive 120 grams combined (60g each). Originally designed to be tied with rope and worn as armlets, the pair has since been adapted with secure gold lobster clasps for wear as bracelets.Similar examples are published in Oppi Untracht’s Traditional Jewelry of India (1997, p. 310, Sotheby’s) and a related pair purchased in Calcutta in 1884 by the American traveller Isabella Stewart Gardner is now in the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston. These were reportedly taken during the Siege of Delhi in 1857 from the Mughal emperor’s palace and are illustrated in Chong & Murai (2009, p. 459).According to Untracht (1997), the proper commissioning of navaratna jewellery follows an exacting ritual process—beginning with a priestly blessing of the stones and concluding with setting them at astrologically auspicious times. As such, the creation of one piece could take over a year.An exceptional and rare pair of late 19th century navaratna bracelets—steeped in symbolism, craftsmanship, and history.
A superb pair of antique late 19th to early 20th century Indian navaratna ‘pahunchaband’ bracelets, crafted in Jaipur circa 1900. These richly decorated bracelets were traditionally worn by women in Rajasthan, North-Western India, where gemstones were believed to hold astrological and talismanic significance.
Each bracelet features the full navaratna—nine sacred gemstones—set in high-karat gold over a lac core, with every stone representing one of the cosmic influences from Hindu astrology. The large gemstones are foil-backed and arranged in a fixed order for maximum auspicious effect:
- Emerald – Mercury (Budha)
- Diamond – Venus (Shukra)
- Pearl – Moon (Candra)
- Yellow sapphire – Jupiter (Brihaspati)
- Garnet – Sun (Surya)
- Red coral – Mars (Mangala)
- Cat's eye – Descending Node (Ketu)
- Blue sapphire – Saturn (Shani)
- Hessonite garnet – Ascending Node (Rahu)
Each large gemstone is surrounded at the corners by small diamonds, set in a gold mount decorated with fine square crosshatching and green enamel. The reverse of each bracelet is beautifully finished with red Mughal-style poppy motifs in red, blue, and white guilloché enamel.
The bracelets measure 19cm in length and 1.5cm in width, and weigh an impressive 120 grams combined (60g each). Originally designed to be tied with rope and worn as armlets, the pair has since been adapted with secure gold lobster clasps for wear as bracelets.
Similar examples are published in Oppi Untracht’s Traditional Jewelry of India (1997, p. 310, Sotheby’s) and a related pair purchased in Calcutta in 1884 by the American traveller Isabella Stewart Gardner is now in the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston. These were reportedly taken during the Siege of Delhi in 1857 from the Mughal emperor’s palace and are illustrated in Chong & Murai (2009, p. 459).
According to Untracht (1997), the proper commissioning of navaratna jewellery follows an exacting ritual process—beginning with a priestly blessing of the stones and concluding with setting them at astrologically auspicious times. As such, the creation of one piece could take over a year.
An exceptional and rare pair of late 19th century navaratna bracelets—steeped in symbolism, craftsmanship, and history.
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