19th Century South India ‘Nalī’ Ring

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    • A remarkable early 19th-century nalī ring from Tamil Nadu, South India, inspired by traditional vanki armlets. These distinctive wishbone-shaped rings were crafted for ceremonial purposes and often gifted to South Indian brides, typically by a maternal aunt, as noted by Nanditha Krishna (1991).

      This example is masterfully crafted from high-karat 22K gold, worked in repoussé to create a hollow yet sculptural form. The face features an intricate depiction of a deity, probably Lakshmi or Vishnu with dancing attendants. . At the base, a faceted emerald is bezel-set, with three natural pearls suspended below, freely dangling from gold wire.

      Measuring 2.5cm north to south, the ring is approximately a UK size Q 1/2 (US 8.5) and it weighs 4.35g. Despite its age, the ring remains in good overall condition, retaining its fine detailing and rich gold patina. There is evidence of a past repair on the shoulders. The ring is stamped with a later French ‘owl’ control mark, a legal requirement when it was brought into or sold in the country. 

      Similar rings are housed in prestigious museum collections, including the Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession No: IS.469-2019) and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA No. AC1994.175.1). An exquisite piece of South Indian heritage, steeped in symbolism and tradition.
    A remarkable early 19th-century nalī ring from Tamil Nadu, South India, inspired by traditional vanki armlets. These distinctive wishbone-shaped rings were crafted for ceremonial purposes and often gifted to South Indian brides, typically by a maternal aunt, as noted by Nanditha Krishna (1991).

    This example is masterfully crafted from high-karat 22K gold, worked in repoussé to create a hollow yet sculptural form. The face features an intricate depiction of a deity, probably Lakshmi or Vishnu with dancing attendants. . At the base, a faceted emerald is bezel-set, with three natural pearls suspended below, freely dangling from gold wire.

    Measuring 2.5cm north to south, the ring is approximately a UK size Q 1/2 (US 8.5) and it weighs 4.35g. Despite its age, the ring remains in good overall condition, retaining its fine detailing and rich gold patina. There is evidence of a past repair on the shoulders. The ring is stamped with a later French ‘owl’ control mark, a legal requirement when it was brought into or sold in the country. 

    Similar rings are housed in prestigious museum collections, including the Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession No: IS.469-2019) and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA No. AC1994.175.1). An exquisite piece of South Indian heritage, steeped in symbolism and tradition.

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