French Emerald “Tombeau” Ring
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A rare early 19th-century French regional “bague tombeau” emerald ring, made around c.1830 and associated with the jewellery traditions of Poitou-Charentes of south-western France. The design consciously revives 16th-century Renaissance ring forms, with a high architectural bezel, enamelled detailing, and a compact gemstone set into a raised pyramidal mount.The term bague tombeau refers to this distinctive “tomb-like” ring form: a square or rectangular raised bezel, often shaped like a truncated pyramid, with enamelled ornament to the sides and shoulders.This example is crafted in 18K gold and set with a small square-cut emerald. The emerald sits within a raised, pyramidal bezel, with ’pie-crust’ edging and scalloped grooves filled with black enamel with white dots. The shoulders are broad and tapering, with foliate engraved detail, before narrowing into a plain gold band.Comparable examples are held in the Louvre, including OA 660, a silver enamelled mourning ring with a dark red stone. Further examples can be found in ‘Les Bijoux des Français’ by Michael Fieggen, page 178 (see final photos for examples).The ring is unmarked but tests as 18K gold. It weighs 2.81g and is a UK size J / US 4.75. The bezel measures approximately 9mm wide and rises around 5mm from the finger. The emerald measures approximately 4 × 4 × 2mm.Condition is very good for a regional jewel of this age. The emerald is secure and wearable, with minor surface wear visible under magnification. The gold shows light age-related surface wear, and the enamel decoration has some expected rubbing and losses, but remains clearly legible around the bezel.
A rare early 19th-century French regional “bague tombeau” emerald ring, made around c.1830 and associated with the jewellery traditions of Poitou-Charentes of south-western France. The design consciously revives 16th-century Renaissance ring forms, with a high architectural bezel, enamelled detailing, and a compact gemstone set into a raised pyramidal mount.
The term bague tombeau refers to this distinctive “tomb-like” ring form: a square or rectangular raised bezel, often shaped like a truncated pyramid, with enamelled ornament to the sides and shoulders.
This example is crafted in 18K gold and set with a small square-cut emerald. The emerald sits within a raised, pyramidal bezel, with ’pie-crust’ edging and scalloped grooves filled with black enamel with white dots. The shoulders are broad and tapering, with foliate engraved detail, before narrowing into a plain gold band.
Comparable examples are held in the Louvre, including OA 660, a silver enamelled mourning ring with a dark red stone. Further examples can be found in ‘Les Bijoux des Français’ by Michael Fieggen, page 178 (see final photos for examples).
The ring is unmarked but tests as 18K gold. It weighs 2.81g and is a UK size J / US 4.75. The bezel measures approximately 9mm wide and rises around 5mm from the finger. The emerald measures approximately 4 × 4 × 2mm.
Condition is very good for a regional jewel of this age. The emerald is secure and wearable, with minor surface wear visible under magnification. The gold shows light age-related surface wear, and the enamel decoration has some expected rubbing and losses, but remains clearly legible around the bezel.
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