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A rare Portuguese 18th century ‘minas novas’ rock crystal cluster ring, circa 1770. A lovely example of Georgian period Portuguese jewellery, this marquise-shaped ring was crafted in 15K gold and displays excellent craftsmanship. The larger central faceted stone is surrounded by two concentric rows of densely set rock crystals, separated by a gold beaded border which is a typical feature of Portuguese jewels of this period. The stones are all in foil-backed and closed settings, allowing the stones to glisten marvellously in candlelight. They range from greenish-sea foam to pale dusty blue in appearance, some with an even darker lustre. The closed underside of the bezel is curved to align with the natural curvature of the finger. Although the original shank has been replaced, probably from a resizing done in the late 19th to early 20th century, the colour and style of the later shank match the rest faithfully.
Minas novas refers to rock crystals or quartz which originate from Minas Gerais, Brazil. The late 18th century saw a wealth of Portuguese jewellery design as bountiful gemstone yields from these Portuguese-controlled mines allowed jewellers to experiment with sumptuous designs using a variety of colourful gems including quartz, topaz, beryl and chrysoberyl.
This elegant ring sits fairly flat on the finger to allow for frequent wear and remains in great wearable condition despite its significant age. Under loupe magnification, there are some age-related abrasions to the gem facet junctions (difficult to spot with the naked eye) and some damage to one of the stones (causing it to appear darker). There is also some age-related patina, tarnish, and light surface wear to the gold. As the stones are in foil-backed settings, you should limit exposure to water when wearing this jewel, as it might make the foil darken and cause the stones to appear dull.
Two very similar late 18th century Portuguese cluster rings are in the Koch collection (no. 957 and 958), “Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection” by Anna Beatriz Chadour (see final photo for example). For a similar example sold at auction see Sotheby's 2007 'Important Jewels' Sale: https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2007/important-jewels-l07053/lot.280.html.
UK size N 1/2, US size 7
7.41g, unmarked but tests as 15K gold. The cluster head measures 28mm x 18mm.
A rare Portuguese 18th century ‘minas novas’ rock crystal cluster ring, circa 1770. A lovely example of Georgian period Portuguese jewellery, this marquise-shaped ring was crafted in 15K gold and displays excellent craftsmanship. The larger central faceted stone is surrounded by two concentric rows of densely set rock crystals, separated by a gold beaded border which is a typical feature of Portuguese jewels of this period. The stones are all in foil-backed and closed settings, allowing the stones to glisten marvellously in candlelight. They range from greenish-sea foam to pale dusty blue in appearance, some with an even darker lustre. The closed underside of the bezel is curved to align with the natural curvature of the finger. Although the original shank has been replaced, probably from a resizing done in the late 19th to early 20th century, the colour and style of the later shank match the rest faithfully.
Minas novas refers to rock crystals or quartz which originate from Minas Gerais, Brazil. The late 18th century saw a wealth of Portuguese jewellery design as bountiful gemstone yields from these Portuguese-controlled mines allowed jewellers to experiment with sumptuous designs using a variety of colourful gems including quartz, topaz, beryl and chrysoberyl.
This elegant ring sits fairly flat on the finger to allow for frequent wear and remains in great wearable condition despite its significant age. Under loupe magnification, there are some age-related abrasions to the gem facet junctions (difficult to spot with the naked eye) and some damage to one of the stones (causing it to appear darker). There is also some age-related patina, tarnish, and light surface wear to the gold. As the stones are in foil-backed settings, you should limit exposure to water when wearing this jewel, as it might make the foil darken and cause the stones to appear dull.
Two very similar late 18th century Portuguese cluster rings are in the Koch collection (no. 957 and 958), “Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection” by Anna Beatriz Chadour (see final photo for example). For a similar example sold at auction see Sotheby's 2007 'Important Jewels' Sale: https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2007/important-jewels-l07053/lot.280.html.
UK size N 1/2, US size 7
7.41g, unmarked but tests as 15K gold. The cluster head measures 28mm x 18mm.
Minas novas refers to rock crystals or quartz which originate from Minas Gerais, Brazil. The late 18th century saw a wealth of Portuguese jewellery design as bountiful gemstone yields from these Portuguese-controlled mines allowed jewellers to experiment with sumptuous designs using a variety of colourful gems including quartz, topaz, beryl and chrysoberyl.
This elegant ring sits fairly flat on the finger to allow for frequent wear and remains in great wearable condition despite its significant age. Under loupe magnification, there are some age-related abrasions to the gem facet junctions (difficult to spot with the naked eye) and some damage to one of the stones (causing it to appear darker). There is also some age-related patina, tarnish, and light surface wear to the gold. As the stones are in foil-backed settings, you should limit exposure to water when wearing this jewel, as it might make the foil darken and cause the stones to appear dull.
Two very similar late 18th century Portuguese cluster rings are in the Koch collection (no. 957 and 958), “Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection” by Anna Beatriz Chadour (see final photo for example). For a similar example sold at auction see Sotheby's 2007 'Important Jewels' Sale: https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2007/important-jewels-l07053/lot.280.html.
UK size N 1/2, US size 7
7.41g, unmarked but tests as 15K gold. The cluster head measures 28mm x 18mm.
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