About Intaglio
An intaglio is a design cut into the surface of a gemstone, hardstone or glass, so that the image sits below the surface – the reverse of a cameo, which is carved in relief. Intaglios were made to be pressed into wax or clay, leaving a raised impression, and the craft runs from ancient Near Eastern seals through Greek and Roman gem engraving, the Sasanian and Islamic worlds, and the Renaissance. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, Grand Tour travellers revived the taste for classical gems, and James Tassie's moulded glass-paste copies brought famous antique stones within reach of a wider public.
What to look for. Examine the cutting under a loupe: confident, fluid lines and well-modelled figures point to a skilled engraver. Carnelian, sard, jasper, chalcedony, nicolo and amethyst are the classic materials. Glass intaglios often show tiny bubbles, softly rounded moulded edges and more surface wear than hardstone. Ancient gems were frequently remounted, so a Roman stone in a Georgian gold ring is a common and perfectly legitimate combination – it simply means the gem and the setting date from different periods.
Dating clues. Roman gems are usually small, cut with wheel and drill, and often show rounded drill-work in hair and drapery. Georgian intaglios favour neoclassical subjects in closed-back gold collets or swivel mounts. Victorian examples are often larger, with crests, mottoes or portraits of philosophers and poets.
Why buyers love them. An intaglio is a miniature work of art you can wear: gods, emperors, animals and emblems carved by hand, sometimes two thousand years ago, and still sharp enough to seal a letter today.