A pair of antique black diamond earrings made in Siam (Thailand), dating from the mid-19th century.

Each gold earring features 25 flat cut Thai black diamonds in rubover, closed-back gold settings. These elegant tiered earrings are crafted in 14K gold and feature areas of both sectioned and interlinked components designed to move, swish and glisten. They display traditional Southeast Asian techniques including granulation and riveted tier sections.

These types of earrings are modelled from the jewels worn in the Royal Courts of Bangkok. This particular pair of earrings would have been made for a wealthy aristocratic woman, or possibly a lower ranking female member of the extended Royal family. In the 19th century, the Kings of Siam were particularly polygamous and had a joint total of 124 wives and 159 royal children, each requiring their own bejewelled regalia and courtly dress jewels, bestowed to them by the King according to their rank.

The gold is also stamped with a French import mark for 14K gold from when it was later brought into the country. The earrings weigh a total of 5.88 grams. Each earring measures approx 32mm x 21mm x 8mm.

Similar published examples can be found in Richter’s ‘The Jewellery of Southeast Asia’ (2000, p. 94-95).

The Victorian era was a period of great change and innovation in the world of jewellery. Spanning from 1837 to 1901, the era witnessed an explosion of styles from romantic and sentimental to Gothic and grotesque. The use of jet, onyx, and coral in mourning jewellery became popular after the death of Prince Albert in 1861. The discovery of diamond mines in South Africa in 1867 led to an increase in the use of diamonds in jewellery, as well as the popularity of more elaborate gemstone cuts such as the cushion, rose, and old mine cuts.

Victorian jewellery was also notable for its use of complex symbolism, such as snake motifs that represented eternal love or the use of flowers to convey hidden meanings. The jewellery made in this era featured the finest materials and was made by highly skilled craftsmen, making it some of the most desirable antique jewellery for its unique charm and fine quality.

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RETURNS

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