Rough Garnet Silver Charivari Pendant

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    • An unusual silver and natural garnet amulet pendant from southern Germany or the Alpine region, in the charivari tradition. Probably early 20th century, though, as we explain below, pieces of this kind are notoriously difficult to date.

      At its centre is a completely uncut garnet crystal, retaining its natural geometric form and deep wine-red colour. Rather than reshaping the stone, the silversmith has created the mount specifically around it, the broad silver cap following the irregular contours of the crystal. This preservation of the gemstone in its natural state is arguably the most interesting aspect of the piece.

      The pendant belongs to a long Central European tradition in which unusual stones, animal remains and naturally occurring materials were valued not simply for decoration, but for the protective or talismanic qualities attributed to them. In the Alpine regions these traditions became closely associated with the charivari: silver chains worn with regional dress and hung with personal charms, hunting trophies, teeth, horns, coins and gemstones. Such objects could accumulate over a lifetime and were often intensely personal.

      A note on dating. The pendant came to us loose, within a group of charivari amulets and charms dating from the 17th to the 19th century. Regional charivari styles, however, never really went out of fashion, and Alpine silversmiths made the same forms in the same way well into the 20th century. Such pieces can only really be dated by the mount. This one is stamped 925 for sterling silver, in an unusual position that may indicate the mark was added later. On balance we place it in the early 20th century, but an earlier date cannot be ruled out, and it could be as late as the 1940s or 1950s.

      Garnet itself has a particularly strong connection with Central Europe. Important natural deposits occur throughout the eastern Alps, including Tyrol, South Tyrol and Carinthia, where dark red almandine garnets were historically collected and later mined commercially. It is therefore quite possible that this crystal was a locally encountered stone, preserved in its natural form and mounted as a personal amulet.

      The pendant has a pleasingly untouched surface, the oxidised silver contrasting with flashes of dark translucent red within the garnet. A characterful piece of vernacular jewellery in which natural history, regional dress and older beliefs surrounding protective stones meet.

      Details: Probably early 20th century, possibly earlier or as late as mid-20th century; probably southern Germany / Alpine region; silver, stamped 925, and natural rough garnet; 5.36g; 1.6 x 1.4cm excluding bail; gemstone tests as garnet.
    An unusual silver and natural garnet amulet pendant from southern Germany or the Alpine region, in the charivari tradition. Probably early 20th century, though, as we explain below, pieces of this kind are notoriously difficult to date.

    At its centre is a completely uncut garnet crystal, retaining its natural geometric form and deep wine-red colour. Rather than reshaping the stone, the silversmith has created the mount specifically around it, the broad silver cap following the irregular contours of the crystal. This preservation of the gemstone in its natural state is arguably the most interesting aspect of the piece.

    The pendant belongs to a long Central European tradition in which unusual stones, animal remains and naturally occurring materials were valued not simply for decoration, but for the protective or talismanic qualities attributed to them. In the Alpine regions these traditions became closely associated with the charivari: silver chains worn with regional dress and hung with personal charms, hunting trophies, teeth, horns, coins and gemstones. Such objects could accumulate over a lifetime and were often intensely personal.

    A note on dating. The pendant came to us loose, within a group of charivari amulets and charms dating from the 17th to the 19th century. Regional charivari styles, however, never really went out of fashion, and Alpine silversmiths made the same forms in the same way well into the 20th century. Such pieces can only really be dated by the mount. This one is stamped 925 for sterling silver, in an unusual position that may indicate the mark was added later. On balance we place it in the early 20th century, but an earlier date cannot be ruled out, and it could be as late as the 1940s or 1950s.

    Garnet itself has a particularly strong connection with Central Europe. Important natural deposits occur throughout the eastern Alps, including Tyrol, South Tyrol and Carinthia, where dark red almandine garnets were historically collected and later mined commercially. It is therefore quite possible that this crystal was a locally encountered stone, preserved in its natural form and mounted as a personal amulet.

    The pendant has a pleasingly untouched surface, the oxidised silver contrasting with flashes of dark translucent red within the garnet. A characterful piece of vernacular jewellery in which natural history, regional dress and older beliefs surrounding protective stones meet.

    Details: Probably early 20th century, possibly earlier or as late as mid-20th century; probably southern Germany / Alpine region; silver, stamped 925, and natural rough garnet; 5.36g; 1.6 x 1.4cm excluding bail; gemstone tests as garnet.

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