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This remarkable Indian ring, crafted in the early 20th century, features a carved emerald gemstone, probably dating from the Mughal period. The 4.3-carat stone is intricately engraved on both sides; its surface displaying a stylised floral motif, while the reverse reveals a star within a circle. Such carved gems were originally set into turban ornaments, armbands (bazubands), and many other types of courtly jewels worn by the Mughal elite.As these ceremonial adornments fell out of fashion in the early 1900s, many of their gemstones were repurposed into wearable rings and pendants. This ring is a fine example of that transition: preserving a centuries-old gem within a newly created high-karat gold mount, rich in enamel decoration.The 22–23K gold ring is beautifully enamelled in Prussian blue, white, orange and green, with floral motifs continuing even on the inside of the band - an artistic flourish only visible when the ring is removed.The emerald itself has a deep forest green hue with natural inclusions, securely set in a bold square bezel with red and black enamel edging.Measurements & Details:
- UK ring size: N½ (US size 7)
- Emerald: 11mm diameter, approximately 4.3 carats
- Bezel: 15mm north to south
- Band tapers to 3.5mm
- Weight: 12.46 grams
- Metal: High-karat gold (tested as 22–23K)
Condition: Good overall condition. Under loupe magnification, a small chip can be seen on one of the carved petals, though it is barely visible to the naked eye. The gemstone displays a rich colour with natural streaks and inclusions throughout, and it is securely mounted. The enamel remains bright, with minor surface wear consistent with age.An exceptional and rare jewel, preserving the splendour of the Mughal court in a wearable 20th-century form.
This remarkable Indian ring, crafted in the early 20th century, features a carved emerald gemstone, probably dating from the Mughal period. The 4.3-carat stone is intricately engraved on both sides; its surface displaying a stylised floral motif, while the reverse reveals a star within a circle. Such carved gems were originally set into turban ornaments, armbands (bazubands), and many other types of courtly jewels worn by the Mughal elite.
As these ceremonial adornments fell out of fashion in the early 1900s, many of their gemstones were repurposed into wearable rings and pendants. This ring is a fine example of that transition: preserving a centuries-old gem within a newly created high-karat gold mount, rich in enamel decoration.
The 22–23K gold ring is beautifully enamelled in Prussian blue, white, orange and green, with floral motifs continuing even on the inside of the band - an artistic flourish only visible when the ring is removed.
The emerald itself has a deep forest green hue with natural inclusions, securely set in a bold square bezel with red and black enamel edging.
Measurements & Details:
- UK ring size: N½ (US size 7)
- Emerald: 11mm diameter, approximately 4.3 carats
- Bezel: 15mm north to south
- Band tapers to 3.5mm
- Weight: 12.46 grams
- Metal: High-karat gold (tested as 22–23K)
Condition: Good overall condition. Under loupe magnification, a small chip can be seen on one of the carved petals, though it is barely visible to the naked eye. The gemstone displays a rich colour with natural streaks and inclusions throughout, and it is securely mounted. The enamel remains bright, with minor surface wear consistent with age.
An exceptional and rare jewel, preserving the splendour of the Mughal court in a wearable 20th-century form.
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