An antique engagement ring is a different proposition from a new one. The diamond was cut by hand, often more than a century ago; the setting was made for one person and has been worn and loved since. For couples in Korea who want something no one else will have, buying an antique or vintage ring from England and Europe is increasingly popular. This guide explains how to choose one and how to buy it directly from London, without a middleman.
Antique or vintage?
An antique ring is at least 100 years old, so made before about 1926. A vintage ring is usually 20 to 100 years old. Many of the most sought-after engagement rings, from the Georgian period to Art Deco, fall into the antique category; mid-century and later rings are vintage. Both can be beautiful, but the age should always be described honestly.
Old-cut diamonds: why they look different
Before modern machines, diamonds were cut by eye and by hand to make the most of the rough crystal and of candlelight. They do not look like a modern brilliant, and that is exactly why people love them.
- Rose cut. A flat base and a domed top of triangular facets. It glows softly rather than flashing, and was used from the 1500s through the 19th century. In Georgian rings, rose-cut diamonds were often set in closed, foil-backed settings to boost their brightness.
- Old mine cut. The ancestor of the modern brilliant: a cushion shape, a high crown, a small table and a large open facet at the bottom (the culet). It gives big, chunky flashes of light. Typical of the Georgian and Victorian periods.
- Old European cut. A round stone with a high crown and a visible culet, cut from the late 19th century into the 1930s. It is the classic diamond of Edwardian and Art Deco rings, and it is warmer and more lively in soft light than a modern round brilliant.
Each old-cut diamond is individual. Two stones of the same weight can look quite different, which is why we always encourage buyers to ask for a video in natural light.
Engagement rings through the eras
- Georgian (1714–1837). Handmade clusters and flowers of rose-cut and old mine cut diamonds, often in silver-topped gold. Rare, and full of character.
- Victorian (1837–1901). Snakes (a symbol of eternal love), half-hoops, clusters and, in the late Victorian years, gypsy settings with the stones set flush in the gold.
- Edwardian (1901–1910, often used loosely to about 1915). Platinum, millegrain edges and delicate openwork in the Belle Époque garland style. The Edwardian ring is perhaps the most classic antique engagement ring.
- Art Nouveau (c.1890–1910). Flowing, natural lines, and toi et moi ("you and me") rings with two stones side by side.
- Art Deco (c.1920–1935). Geometry, platinum and calibré-cut coloured stones framing old European cut diamonds.
- Retro and vintage (c.1935 onwards). Bolder gold settings and, later, more modern cuts.
Why an antique ring is a better story
Lab-grown diamonds have made new diamonds cheaper and more uniform. An antique ring offers something different: a stone cut by hand generations ago, a setting that has survived a century or more, and a history you can tell. Nothing new is mined or made to create it. And because the market values antique rings for their rarity and craftsmanship, they tend to hold their appeal in a way that mass-produced jewellery does not.
Certificates and what to ask
Every piece we sell comes with a certificate of authenticity and an information sheet describing the period, materials and stones. Old-cut diamonds in antique rings usually do not come with modern laboratory grading reports, and an honest dealer will tell you what a ring does and does not have. Before buying, ask for:
- a video in natural light, and close-ups of the back of the setting;
- photographs of any hallmarks;
- whether any stones have been replaced, and whether the ring has been resized before;
- the exact ring size and whether it can be resized.
Ring sizes and resizing
English rings are sized by letter (UK sizes) and many listings also give US sizes. As a rough guide for Korean sizes (호): UK J is about 9호, UK L about 12호, UK M about 13호, UK N about 14호, UK P about 17호. Measure the finger carefully, and if you are unsure, tell us your size in 호 and we will check the ring for you.
We offer complimentary resizing where it is feasible without harming the ring. Some antique designs, such as full eternity rings or rings with stones all the way round, cannot be resized safely, and we will always tell you. Please note that resized rings are final sale; unaltered rings can be returned within 30 days.
Buying directly from London instead of through a middleman
Much antique jewellery reaches Asia through buying agents and live-stream sellers who source in England and resell with a margin on top. Buying directly from a specialist dealer means a better price, a ring that has been checked by the people who found it, insured shipping and correct customs paperwork. If you can travel, London's markets, including Kempton (Sunbury Antiques Market), the indoor arcades of Portobello Road on a Saturday and Grays in Mayfair, are wonderful places to look; our guide to buying antique jewellery from England covers them in detail.
Delivery, customs and payment for Korea
- Free insured delivery from London: DHL Express on orders over £400, Royal Mail International Tracked below.
- Personal imports from the UK are duty-free up to US$150. Above that, jewellery attracts 8% duty (0% for pieces of UK origin under the UK–Korea FTA with an origin declaration) plus 10% VAT. Very high-value rings may also attract individual consumption tax; we will advise per piece.
- Enter your Personal Customs Clearance Code (개인통관고유부호) at checkout, with a name that matches it exactly.
- We describe and classify every ring accurately, declare pieces over 100 years old as antiques, and always declare the full value.
- We offer discounts to help cover duty and VAT, especially on higher-value rings. Just email us.
- Prices are shown in won; pay by card, PayPal, Apple Pay, Google Pay or UnionPay.
Rings available now
- Georgian rose-cut diamond floral cluster ring, England, c.1780
- Victorian diamond snake ring
- Art Nouveau diamond solitaire, Paris, c.1900
- Edwardian platinum sapphire and diamond ring, c.1910
- French toi et moi diamond ring, c.1910
- Art Deco lotus diamond ring
See all antique and vintage engagement rings and antique diamond rings.
Get in touch
Email us at info@ravensburyantiques.com; we are more than happy to help. Ask for videos in natural light, tell us your budget and ring size in 호, or describe the ring you are dreaming of and we will look for it. A KakaoTalk channel is coming soon; for now, please email.
Frequently asked questions
Is an old-cut diamond less sparkly than a modern one?
It sparkles differently. Old mine and old European cuts give broader, warmer flashes of light, and rose cuts glow softly. Many people prefer them, especially in daylight and candlelight.
Do antique diamonds come with a GIA report?
Usually not. Antique rings come with our certificate of authenticity and an information sheet; ask us about any individual stone.
Can I resize an antique engagement ring?
Often, yes, and we do it free of charge where it is feasible. Resized rings cannot be returned.
How much tax will I pay in Korea?
Over US$150, jewellery usually attracts 8% duty (0% for qualifying UK-origin pieces) plus 10% VAT, and very high-value pieces may attract individual consumption tax. We advise per piece and offer discounts to help.
How long does delivery take?
Orders over £400 travel by DHL Express, fully insured. Contact us for the latest estimate for your address.