The signet ring is one of the oldest forms of jewellery in the world, and England is the best place on earth to find an antique one. For centuries almost every English gentleman wore a gold signet, engraved with a family crest, coat of arms, motto or initials, and a great many of those rings survive. For collectors in China and Hong Kong, an antique signet ring is a piece of real European history, solid gold, and often more affordable than a new designer ring. This guide explains how to choose one, what the hallmarks and engraving tell you, and how to buy directly from London.
Antique means at least 100 years old; vintage usually means roughly 20 to 100 years old. Both are worth considering, and they suit different wearers.
A short history
Signet rings were originally working tools. The engraved face was pressed into hot wax to seal letters and documents, so the design was cut in reverse, to read correctly in the impression. Romans wore seal rings set with carved gemstones; medieval merchants and nobles used them to sign; and in Georgian and Victorian England they became the mark of a gentleman. By the 20th century, with gummed envelopes and signatures, the signet had become mainly a sign of family, school or regiment.
The main types
- Solid gold signets. A gold head, engraved directly with a crest, coat of arms or monogram. Common from the later Victorian period onwards, often fully hallmarked.
- Stone-set seal signets. A hardstone such as carnelian, bloodstone, sardonyx, banded agate or lapis lazuli, engraved with the design. Typical of the Georgian and early Victorian periods.
- Intaglio rings. A gem carved in reverse, often with a classical head or figure. Some set ancient Roman intaglios in later gold mounts; Georgian Tassie glass intaglios copied famous ancient gems.
- Converted seals. Many Georgian signet rings were made from fob seals, which once hung from a watch chain, set into a ring later.
Crests, coats of arms and mottoes
A coat of arms is a full shield, often with supporters and a motto; a crest is the smaller emblem that sat above the helmet, such as a lion, a stag's head or a raised arm holding a sword. English signets most often carry the crest alone, sometimes enclosed in a garter or wreath, sometimes with a motto in Latin. It is sometimes possible to trace the family behind a crest through reference books of heraldry, and a ring with an identified family is especially interesting.
Many collectors wear a ring engraved with another family's crest simply for its beauty and history. If you prefer, an uncarved head or blank stone can be engraved today with your own initials or design by a skilled hand engraver. We would not recommend removing original engraving from an antique ring.
Reading the hallmarks
British hallmarks are the most informative in the world. On a fully marked ring you will find the maker's mark, the standard mark (the gold purity), the assay office mark and a date letter giving the year.
- 9ct, 15ct, 18ct and 22ct are the traditional British gold standards. 18ct was introduced in 1798, and 9ct and 15ct in 1854. 15ct was abolished in 1932, so a British 15ct signet is Victorian, Edwardian or from the early 1930s at the latest.
- The duty mark, the sovereign's head in profile, appears between 1784 and 1890 and is a strong sign of an antique ring.
- Unmarked rings are normal. Many Georgian and Victorian gold rings were never hallmarked. Their gold is tested, and they are dated by style and construction instead.
We always photograph the marks on request and explain exactly what they mean.
Georgian and Victorian signets: what to look for
- Georgian (1714–1837). Oval or octagonal stone-set heads, broad tapering shoulders and a slim shank, often in high-carat gold and frequently unmarked.
- Victorian (1837–1901). Early rings have sculpted or scrolling shoulders and hardstone seals; later rings have solid gold heads in oval, cushion and shield shapes, engraved directly and fully hallmarked.
- Edwardian and later. Cleaner, more geometric heads, leading to the heavy vintage signets of the mid-20th century.
- Ancient and medieval. For the specialist: ancient Roman rings and medieval and Renaissance rings are among the rarest seals of all.
Antique or vintage: which to choose?
Neither is automatically better. Antique signets, especially Georgian and early Victorian stone-set seals, are rarer and usually more individual, because more of them were made to order. Vintage signets from the mid-20th century often offer more gold for the money, more generous sizes and a robust build that suits everyday wear. Many collectors own one of each: an antique ring for its history, and a heavy vintage signet for every day. Whichever you choose, the age should be explained clearly, with the mount and the stone dated separately where they differ.
Men's and women's wear
Traditionally an English gentleman wore his signet on the little finger of the left hand. Today there are no rules. Many men wear a signet on the little finger or ring finger, and smaller signets and seal rings look wonderful on women, often stacked with other rings. Women's signets were also made in the Victorian period, usually smaller with oval heads. See our antique men's rings for heavier designs.
Sizing
Every listing gives the UK ring size, and we can tell you the equivalent in your local sizing. Little-finger sizes are smaller than you might expect, so measure the finger you intend to wear it on. Most gold signets resize easily, and we offer complimentary resizing where it is feasible. Resized rings are final sale.
Why buy directly from a London dealer
Many signet rings sold in China and Hong Kong pass through a buying agent, daigou or live-stream host who sourced them in England. Most European dealers do not ship to China or prepare the right customs paperwork, which is why that system exists, and the buyer pays the markup. Buying directly from a specialist who ships to you means a better price and a dealer who can answer every question about the ring.
- Free insured delivery from London: DHL Express on orders over £400, Royal Mail International Tracked below.
- Correct customs paperwork: accurate descriptions and full, honest declared values. Pieces over 100 years old can be declared as antiques.
- Discounts to help with import taxes, especially on higher-value pieces and multi-piece orders. Just email us.
- Signed certificate of authenticity and information sheet with every ring.
- 30-day returns (resized rings are final sale).
- Pay in your currency by card, PayPal, Apple Pay, Google Pay or UnionPay; Alipay is being added.
Import tax: mainland China and Hong Kong
In mainland China, personal parcels are assessed under the postal articles tax (行邮税). Gold and other precious-metal items are broadly taxed at 13%, gem-set jewellery other than diamonds at 50%, with the category decided by customs. Our website may load slowly in mainland China; if so, email us for photographs and videos. Hong Kong has no import duty and no VAT on jewellery, and DHL Express delivery is typically fast.
Buying in person
Signet rings turn up at every good English market: the Sunbury Antiques Market at Kempton Park on the second and last Tuesday of each month, the indoor arcades of Portobello Road on Saturdays, and Grays Antiques in Mayfair on weekdays. Our showroom in Shoreditch, London, is open by appointment.
Signet rings available now
- Georgian Tassie locket ring, c.1820, with a hinged secret compartment
- Victorian 18ct gold banded agate signet, c.1870
- Victorian carnelian intaglio ring with a Roman emperor
- Ancient Roman Triton intaglio gold ring, 2nd–3rd century AD
Browse all antique and vintage signet rings.
Get in touch
We are more than happy to help. Email info@ravensburyantiques.com to ask for a video in natural light, close-ups of the hallmarks and engraving, sizing advice, or to tell us what you are hunting for: a particular crest, a carnelian seal, a heavy gold signet for daily wear.
Frequently asked questions
Which finger should a signet ring be worn on?
Traditionally the little finger of the left hand, but today any finger and either hand is perfectly acceptable.
Can I wear a signet ring with someone else's crest?
Yes. Many collectors wear antique signets for their beauty and history. You can also have an uncarved head engraved with your own initials.
How can I tell if a signet ring is antique?
Look at the hallmarks, the carat of the gold, the shape of the head and shoulders, the style of the engraving and the wear. Many genuine Georgian and Victorian signets are unmarked.
Do you ship signet rings to China and Hong Kong?
Yes, free and fully insured from London, with correct customs paperwork.