A superb 18th century Rococo diamond cluster ring made in Western Europe (Germany or Holland), circa 1760. Three concentric rows of foil-backed rose cut diamonds are set in closed back collet settings. The silver-topped gold bezel is typical of mid-18th century Rococo design, along with its openwork shoulders and convex underside which is engraved with rays emanating from the centre in a floral design.

The stones are foil-backed to enhance the lustre of the diamonds and the triangular facets of the rose cuts allow the diamonds to glisten more beautifully in candlelight. Towards the end of the 17th century, goldsmiths began to set diamonds in silver as they believed that only a white metal mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. The bezel is attached to openwork trifurcating shoulders which are decorated with foliate motifs, and further set with rose cut diamonds. The Rococo scrollwork shoulders terminate into a reeded tapering shank.

UK ring size L 1/2, US size 6

The ring weighs 7.86 grams, the round silver topped bezel measures 18mm across. The diamonds have an approximate total weight of 2.75cts. The ring tests as 18K gold and the inner band is also stamped with some later Dutch hallmarks. The ring remains in fantastic condition despite being around 230 years old; all the stones are still set very securely, although upon magnification there seems to be a chip to one of the smaller stones on the second row which is not noticeable when worn. Despite its impressive age the ring has never been resized or altered. A truly rare surviving example, completely original and in such excellent and wearable condition. Like nearly all diamond jewellery of the period, the stones are foil-backed and in closed settings, therefore you should take care when wearing it to avoid exposure to water.

Diamond rings of this type would have been suitable for engagement; however surviving portraits often show women wearing these types of clusters as dress rings as well. For reference, see the final photo of the listing which shows a c.1765 portrait of Maria Luisa of Spain by Anton Raphael Mengs, in which the subject is wearing a Rococo diamond cluster on her pinky (Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna). A related 18th century West European diamond cluster ring of similar form can be seen in the Koch Collection (no. 950, “Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection” by Anna Beatriz Chadour).

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