A scarce late 18th century high-karat gold and emerald ring, circa 1780. 

This superb gold ring is set with a large faceted natural emerald gemstone, approximately 5cts in weight. The emerald is of Colombian origin, with no colour enhancement and  moderate indications of clarity enhancement (GCS report: 5784-1427). 

It displays a lush green tropical rainforest hue and it’s set in a closed and foil-backed setting, this was the most popular method of gem setting in the 18th century as it added luminosity and made the stones appear to glow from within, which was particularly important in a period when candlelight was the only non-natural light available.

The gemstone is mounted in a gold crimpled collet setting with a domed underside. The openwork shoulders exhibit a floral motif, leading to a smooth tapering band. The yellow gold mount has developed an excellent warm patina and feels like silk on the finger from the countless years of wear. 

In terms of the origin of the ring, there are clear stylistic similarities with 18th century European Rococo period rings, however the cut of the stone and the design of the flower used decorating the shoulders might indicate that it was made elsewhere, possibly late Mughal dynasty India, and in the manner of European rings. Mughal emperors were lovers of precious stones, numerous references show the strong cultural belief in the magical properties of gemstones. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans. Emeralds were enormously popular with the Mughal Court, whose emperors referred to them as “Tears of the Moon” because of their opaque transparency. In the Mughal period, the greatest emeralds arrived in India from Colombia through commercial exchange via the Portuguese-controlled ports of Goa. The influence of the West on Mughal jewels can also be seen in metalworking technology introduced by European jewellers, who were welcomed at court and in some cases went on to play a role in imperial workshops.

UK size Q 1/2, US size 8.5

The ring weighs 4.96 grams and tests as high-karat gold (21K). Emerald measures 11mm x 10mm x (approx) 6.5mm. Since the emerald is mounted in a foil-backed collet setting, a fully accurate reading of the depth measurement would require the stone to be taken out of the setting, a fair estimate based on the approximate depth (6.5mm) of the stone is 5 carats. The outer band is stamped with two hallmarks. One of these is a French import mark and the other is only partially visible.

Despite its impressive 240 year old history, the ring remains in good and wearable condition. Upon magnification there are some light abrasions to the facet junctions of the emerald, and signs of wear to the ring, as to be expected with jewels of this age. A real beauty from a bygone era. Colombian Emeralds are the most sought-after and prized emeralds in the world, known for their vivid green colour. The ring comes with a full gemmological report from GCS (Gemmological Certification Services). 

A golden age for jewellery design, boasting intricate designs inspired by nature and classical mythology. The style reflects the elegance and refinement of the 18th century with the use of diamonds, pastes and intricately worked Rococo settings.

Georgian jewellery is named after the four King Georges of England, an era which lasted from 1714 to 1837. Pieces of Georgian jewellery are handmade works of art, expertly crafted to be treasured for generations. They often used rose-cut and flat-cut stones with large facets that were often foiled to enhance their natural beauty. These pieces were reserved mainly for the aristocratic upper classes, with each piece individually crafted by a highly skilled hand.

DELIVERY

We are pleased to offer free worldwide shipping on all our orders. We dispatch all items via a secure and trackable delivery service providing full insurance for your item. You will receive a shipping confirmation email after purchase with your tracking number so that you know your order is on its way. We aim to dispatch all items within 1-2 working days after payment has been received.

For UK delivery, we send with Royal Mail Special Delivery, arriving by the next working day. For International orders over £1000 we use DHL Express International, and for orders under £1000 we use Royal Mail International Tracked and Signed. All items are sent fully insured.

You can find more information about our shipping policy here.

RETURNS

We understand that purchasing antique jewellery online can be a daunting task, which is why we offer an easy, no-hassle returns policy. If for any reason you are not completely satisfied with your purchase, simply get in touch within 14 days of receipt for a full refund, no questions asked. We want our customers to feel confident when buying from us, and our returns policy is just one way we ensure this.

Conditions: Buyers are responsible for return shipping costs. All items are to be returned in their original condition and packaging. Buyer damaged items and items bought on layaway are ineligible for returns. Items over £2500 can be returned for store credit only.

You can find more information about our returns policy here.