Antique Diamond Dormeuse Earrings
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A pair of antique 19th-century rose-cut diamond dormeuse earrings, made in Vienna during the Austro-Hungarian Empire and later retailed in France. These diamond earrings feature sprung lever-back closures, known as "dormeuse" settings - from the French word for "sleeper" - so called because they were designed to be comfortable enough to sleep in. This practical and secure fastening style became popular in Vienna and Paris in the late 19th century.The earrings are crafted in 14K gold, with the diamonds set in silver-topped, closed-back foiled settings; a construction typical of Georgian and Victorian era diamond jewellery, where silver was used around the stones to sharpen their brightness, while gold was used for the hooks and reverse. Each earring is centred by a substantial rose-cut diamond of approximately 0.60ct, giving a total diamond weight of around 1.20ct.The diamonds are set in crimped collets with a scalloped, crown-like edge and an open crescent gallery visible from the side. This dormeuse, or sleeper, form was widely worn in the 19th century; secure enough for regular use, yet elegant and compact on the ear. The rose cuts have the broad, irregular faceting and soft candlelit brilliance associated with antique diamonds, enhanced by the original foiling beneath. Each diamond measures approximately 6mm across, and the earrings measure around 1.2 × 1.3cm at their longest axes, with an approximate 1.5cm drop from the top of the hook.The marks are particularly interesting. The earrings carry the Austro-Hungarian fox-head mark, A4, indicating Vienna and 14K gold, alongside the French ET import mark; étranger, used for jewellery made abroad and brought into France. Together, these marks place the earrings as Viennese-made, c.1880, and subsequently retailed in Paris. They test as 14K gold and have a combined weight of 2.16g.The condition is very good for their age. The foiled closed-back settings remain intact, the diamonds are secure, and the lever-back sleeper fittings close firmly. Light surface wear is present to the gold and silver settings, consistent with age, but the earrings remain fully wearable and well preserved.A fine pair of Austro-Hungarian rose-cut diamond dormeuse earrings; compact and early in character.
A pair of antique 19th-century rose-cut diamond dormeuse earrings, made in Vienna during the Austro-Hungarian Empire and later retailed in France. These diamond earrings feature sprung lever-back closures, known as "dormeuse" settings - from the French word for "sleeper" - so called because they were designed to be comfortable enough to sleep in. This practical and secure fastening style became popular in Vienna and Paris in the late 19th century.
The earrings are crafted in 14K gold, with the diamonds set in silver-topped, closed-back foiled settings; a construction typical of Georgian and Victorian era diamond jewellery, where silver was used around the stones to sharpen their brightness, while gold was used for the hooks and reverse. Each earring is centred by a substantial rose-cut diamond of approximately 0.60ct, giving a total diamond weight of around 1.20ct.
The diamonds are set in crimped collets with a scalloped, crown-like edge and an open crescent gallery visible from the side. This dormeuse, or sleeper, form was widely worn in the 19th century; secure enough for regular use, yet elegant and compact on the ear. The rose cuts have the broad, irregular faceting and soft candlelit brilliance associated with antique diamonds, enhanced by the original foiling beneath. Each diamond measures approximately 6mm across, and the earrings measure around 1.2 × 1.3cm at their longest axes, with an approximate 1.5cm drop from the top of the hook.
The marks are particularly interesting. The earrings carry the Austro-Hungarian fox-head mark, A4, indicating Vienna and 14K gold, alongside the French ET import mark; étranger, used for jewellery made abroad and brought into France. Together, these marks place the earrings as Viennese-made, c.1880, and subsequently retailed in Paris. They test as 14K gold and have a combined weight of 2.16g.
The condition is very good for their age. The foiled closed-back settings remain intact, the diamonds are secure, and the lever-back sleeper fittings close firmly. Light surface wear is present to the gold and silver settings, consistent with age, but the earrings remain fully wearable and well preserved.
A fine pair of Austro-Hungarian rose-cut diamond dormeuse earrings; compact and early in character.
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