Rare Carved Emerald ‘Jelly Mould’ Ring
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Very few rings are quite as unusual as this extraordinary 19th-century carved emerald and rose-cut diamond cluster ring, made in Paris circa 1840.At its centre is a large natural emerald, intricately carved into a fluted, almost architectural form remarkably reminiscent of a 19th-century jelly mould. The resemblance is particularly apt for the period: elaborate moulded jellies and bavarois had become fashionable features of wealthy European dining by the early 19th century, their increasingly elaborate forms intended as much for visual spectacle as taste. Whether this ring was commissioned by somebody involved in the proliferation of that culinary fashion, or simply by a particularly enthusiastic lover of elaborate desserts, is impossible to know - but the dates align remarkably well.The emerald has been certified by GCS London as a natural Russian emerald with moderate oil, and its pale, almost mint-green colour allows the carved shape to remain particularly visible. The emerald is particularly significant for its Russian origin. Emeralds were only discovered in the Ural Mountains near Yekaterinburg in 1830, with organised mining beginning almost immediately afterwards under Tsar Nicholas I. Dating to around 1840, this stone therefore belongs to the very first generation of Russian emeralds to enter the European jewellery market - material that was still exceptionally new, rare and prestigious at the time.A rose-cut diamond cluster sits directly at its centre, while a further border of rose-cut diamonds frames the rectangular emerald. The diamonds are foil-backed and set in closed silver settings, entirely characteristic of jewellery of the period and designed to maximise their brilliance in lower light.The ring is particularly substantial, weighing 16.79g, and is constructed in approximately 21K gold, with silver applied over the diamond settings. The underside is equally considered, with a radiating engraved gallery beneath the emerald.French control marks for gold and silver confirm its Parisian manufacture.Details: Natural Russian emerald, GCS certified, moderate oil · Rose-cut diamonds · 21K gold and silver · Paris, c.1840 · 16.79g · bezel 24 × 20mm · UK size H / US 4Condition: Very good antique condition. The emerald and diamonds are secure, with age-related wear consistent with a jewel approaching two centuries old. The ring can be made somewhat larger if required.
Very few rings are quite as unusual as this extraordinary 19th-century carved emerald and rose-cut diamond cluster ring, made in Paris circa 1840.
At its centre is a large natural emerald, intricately carved into a fluted, almost architectural form remarkably reminiscent of a 19th-century jelly mould. The resemblance is particularly apt for the period: elaborate moulded jellies and bavarois had become fashionable features of wealthy European dining by the early 19th century, their increasingly elaborate forms intended as much for visual spectacle as taste. Whether this ring was commissioned by somebody involved in the proliferation of that culinary fashion, or simply by a particularly enthusiastic lover of elaborate desserts, is impossible to know - but the dates align remarkably well.
The emerald has been certified by GCS London as a natural Russian emerald with moderate oil, and its pale, almost mint-green colour allows the carved shape to remain particularly visible. The emerald is particularly significant for its Russian origin. Emeralds were only discovered in the Ural Mountains near Yekaterinburg in 1830, with organised mining beginning almost immediately afterwards under Tsar Nicholas I. Dating to around 1840, this stone therefore belongs to the very first generation of Russian emeralds to enter the European jewellery market - material that was still exceptionally new, rare and prestigious at the time.
A rose-cut diamond cluster sits directly at its centre, while a further border of rose-cut diamonds frames the rectangular emerald. The diamonds are foil-backed and set in closed silver settings, entirely characteristic of jewellery of the period and designed to maximise their brilliance in lower light.
The ring is particularly substantial, weighing 16.79g, and is constructed in approximately 21K gold, with silver applied over the diamond settings. The underside is equally considered, with a radiating engraved gallery beneath the emerald.
French control marks for gold and silver confirm its Parisian manufacture.
Details: Natural Russian emerald, GCS certified, moderate oil · Rose-cut diamonds · 21K gold and silver · Paris, c.1840 · 16.79g · bezel 24 × 20mm · UK size H / US 4
Condition: Very good antique condition. The emerald and diamonds are secure, with age-related wear consistent with a jewel approaching two centuries old. The ring can be made somewhat larger if required.
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