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An exquisite mid-18th century Georgian period mourning ring. The hexagonal crystal is inlaid with a memento mori skull and crossbones motif. This ring is steeped with history and is a remarkable example of early Georgian period Stuart crystal memorial jewellery.
This high-karat gold ring dates from circa 1741, and is set with a hexagonal faceted rock crystal. The ornately scrolled Rococo band is decorated with a gold inscription against a white enamel background, to memorialise Mary Denham who died at the untimely age of 29 (‘Mary Denham OB: 12 June 1741 AE: 29’). The use of white enamel signifies that the Mary was unmarried.
The present ring with its white enamel (instead of the traditional black colour) is a particularly rare example of this design. Three similar examples can be found in The British Museum (Object numbers: AF.1680, AF.1681 and AF.1689) with another in The Victoria & Albert Museum (accession number: M.351-1927). The inner band is stamped with the makers mark ‘JC’. A group of 4 rings by the same goldsmith are in the British Museum, and all of them also date from circa 1740. One of these (object AF.1688) is a very similar white enamel mourning ring. See final photos for referenced examples.
These types of rings have their origins in a group of political jewellery known as ‘Stuart crystals’, named after the House of Stuart. They were first created in 1649, when King Charles I (the martyred King of England) was executed under Cromwell’s rule. People loyal to the Stuart monarchy (Royalists) opposed his execution, believing that he was God’s chosen leader. These Royalists secretly wore rock crystal jewellery with locks Martyr King's hair placed beneath the gemstone to show their sympathy and allegiance to the crown. Once that ran out, things like miniature portraits and his initials in gold wire were placed under the crystal. This tradition continued in 17th and early 18th centuries, for the deaths of other monarchs of the Stuart House.
However by the mid-18th century, when this ring was made, wider nobility and the very wealthy began to leave money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families after their death. Enamelled bands with a rock crystal covering symbol such as a coffins, skulls and skeletons were the most common and they were used to symbolise ‘memento mori’ (Latin, "remember that you must die”). A rather stark reminder for the wearer to cherish each day and live life to the fullest because tomorrow is never guaranteed.
This ring exhibits many of the typical features of 18th century European rings; the convex underside of the bezel is engraved with rays which emanate from the centre, openwork fleur-de-lys shoulders and the distinct c-curl motif where the shoulders meet the head. Like most gemstone settings of the period, the rock crystal is foil-backed to capture all the surrounding light by day or candle at night.
Quite remarkably given the age, the rock crystal is in great condition and the foiled setting has not been damaged which means that the skull and crossbones beneath is very clear which is a real rarity (most are usually they're damaged, faded, or otherwise hard to see!). The enamel on the shoulders and band also remains in good condition, with only minor losses. As the rock crystal is in a foil-backed setting, you should limit exposure to water when wearing this jewel, as it might make the foil darken.
UK ring size M 1/2, US ring size 6.5
The ring weighs 3.07 grams, it is unmarked but tests as 21K gold. The band measures 2mm across, and the hexagonal rock crystal measures 6mm by 5mm.
The present ring is a truly fantastic example which would make a great addition to any collection.
An exquisite mid-18th century Georgian period mourning ring. The hexagonal crystal is inlaid with a memento mori skull and crossbones motif. This ring is steeped with history and is a remarkable example of early Georgian period Stuart crystal memorial jewellery.
This high-karat gold ring dates from circa 1741, and is set with a hexagonal faceted rock crystal. The ornately scrolled Rococo band is decorated with a gold inscription against a white enamel background, to memorialise Mary Denham who died at the untimely age of 29 (‘Mary Denham OB: 12 June 1741 AE: 29’). The use of white enamel signifies that the Mary was unmarried.
The present ring with its white enamel (instead of the traditional black colour) is a particularly rare example of this design. Three similar examples can be found in The British Museum (Object numbers: AF.1680, AF.1681 and AF.1689) with another in The Victoria & Albert Museum (accession number: M.351-1927). The inner band is stamped with the makers mark ‘JC’. A group of 4 rings by the same goldsmith are in the British Museum, and all of them also date from circa 1740. One of these (object AF.1688) is a very similar white enamel mourning ring. See final photos for referenced examples.
These types of rings have their origins in a group of political jewellery known as ‘Stuart crystals’, named after the House of Stuart. They were first created in 1649, when King Charles I (the martyred King of England) was executed under Cromwell’s rule. People loyal to the Stuart monarchy (Royalists) opposed his execution, believing that he was God’s chosen leader. These Royalists secretly wore rock crystal jewellery with locks Martyr King's hair placed beneath the gemstone to show their sympathy and allegiance to the crown. Once that ran out, things like miniature portraits and his initials in gold wire were placed under the crystal. This tradition continued in 17th and early 18th centuries, for the deaths of other monarchs of the Stuart House.
However by the mid-18th century, when this ring was made, wider nobility and the very wealthy began to leave money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families after their death. Enamelled bands with a rock crystal covering symbol such as a coffins, skulls and skeletons were the most common and they were used to symbolise ‘memento mori’ (Latin, "remember that you must die”). A rather stark reminder for the wearer to cherish each day and live life to the fullest because tomorrow is never guaranteed.
This ring exhibits many of the typical features of 18th century European rings; the convex underside of the bezel is engraved with rays which emanate from the centre, openwork fleur-de-lys shoulders and the distinct c-curl motif where the shoulders meet the head. Like most gemstone settings of the period, the rock crystal is foil-backed to capture all the surrounding light by day or candle at night.
Quite remarkably given the age, the rock crystal is in great condition and the foiled setting has not been damaged which means that the skull and crossbones beneath is very clear which is a real rarity (most are usually they're damaged, faded, or otherwise hard to see!). The enamel on the shoulders and band also remains in good condition, with only minor losses. As the rock crystal is in a foil-backed setting, you should limit exposure to water when wearing this jewel, as it might make the foil darken.
UK ring size M 1/2, US ring size 6.5
The ring weighs 3.07 grams, it is unmarked but tests as 21K gold. The band measures 2mm across, and the hexagonal rock crystal measures 6mm by 5mm.
The present ring is a truly fantastic example which would make a great addition to any collection.
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