Some rings are made to be beautiful; these were made to be sacred. The Pavithra ring of Kerala and the nine-gem navaratna ring are two of India's most meaningful jewels, and antique examples are rare.
The Pavithra ring
A Pavithra (or Pavithram) ring has an interlinked knot at its centre. Traditionally the knot was woven from holy darbha grass for Hindu Brahmanic ceremonies and worn as a protective amulet. Grass rings had to be remade for every ritual and then thrown away.
From grass to gold in Payyanur
The first gold Pavithra rings are linked to the town of Payyanur in Kerala, South India. The ancient Payyanur Subramanya Temple was damaged in 1788 and rebuilt by 1838. Its priests wanted a ring more durable than grass, and commissioned a local goldsmith to make one in gold. The technique was closely guarded and handed down through the goldsmith's descendants, giving rise to the name Payyannur Pavithra Mothiram. A ring is said to take three days to make, and must be taken to the temple to be sanctified.
What the knot means
The three curving lines of the knot are said to represent three channels of the body, Ida, Pingala and Sushumna, which together awaken divine energy. The ring is worn during rites for ancestors, and is believed to invoke Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.
The navaratna ring
A navaratna ("nine gems") ring combines nine stones representing the nine celestial influences of Hindu astrology. The ruby at the centre is the Sun, surrounded by:
- Diamond (Venus) and pearl (the Moon)
- Red coral (Mars) and emerald (Mercury)
- Yellow sapphire (Jupiter) and blue sapphire (Saturn)
- Hessonite garnet (Rahu) and cat's eye chrysoberyl (Ketu)
Making one properly could take more than a year. According to Oppi Untracht's Traditional Jewelry of India, the stones were first blessed by a priest, then each set in high-carat gold in its correct position at a time auspicious for its planet.
What to look for
- High-carat gold, usually 20 to 22 carats, with a warm patina.
- Closed, often foiled settings. Keep these dry, as with Georgian jewellery.
- Stone substitutions. Humbler rings may use quartz for diamond, or later replacements; a good description says so.
- Construction. Hollow bezels made from gold sheet are normal and need gentle wear.
Indian jewellery available now
Our antique Indian ruby ring from Hyderabad, c.1850, is set in 22ct gold with rock crystal and polki diamonds. Pavithra and navaratna rings come to us only occasionally; tell us what you are looking for and we will let you know when one arrives.