Baroque Turquoise Bow Ring
From the Journal
Buying Antique Rings Online: Sizing, Resizing and Wearability
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An Italian seven-stone bow ring of about 1700, possibly Sicilian: a Baroque love token, given at engagement or marriage.Known regionally as 'a fiocco' (bow) rings, these were popular in Italy from the mid-17th to the mid-19th century, as bow-shaped jewels such as the Sévigné brooch became the height of late Baroque fashion. The carved and enamelled shoulders and 'pie crust' edges are typical of the later 17th century, while the mix of gold and silver and the rounded central setting point to the early 18th (Chadour, 1994).An oval turquoise is surrounded by rose cut diamonds and purple glass cabochons, all in closed-back silver settings; from the late 17th century goldsmiths set diamonds in silver, believing only a white metal showed them at their best. The underside of the bezel is fluted and the shoulders are chased with scrollwork.Similar rings are in the British Museum (AF.2175, AF.2168, AF.1574, AF.2167) and the V&A (437-1868).Details: c.1700; Italy, possibly Sicily; unmarked, tests as high-karat gold (21K) and silver; bow section 15mm x 7mm; UK P, US 7½; 3.49g.Condition: Good, for a ring around 300 years old.
An Italian seven-stone bow ring of about 1700, possibly Sicilian: a Baroque love token, given at engagement or marriage.
Known regionally as 'a fiocco' (bow) rings, these were popular in Italy from the mid-17th to the mid-19th century, as bow-shaped jewels such as the Sévigné brooch became the height of late Baroque fashion. The carved and enamelled shoulders and 'pie crust' edges are typical of the later 17th century, while the mix of gold and silver and the rounded central setting point to the early 18th (Chadour, 1994).
An oval turquoise is surrounded by rose cut diamonds and purple glass cabochons, all in closed-back silver settings; from the late 17th century goldsmiths set diamonds in silver, believing only a white metal showed them at their best. The underside of the bezel is fluted and the shoulders are chased with scrollwork.
Similar rings are in the British Museum (AF.2175, AF.2168, AF.1574, AF.2167) and the V&A (437-1868).
Details: c.1700; Italy, possibly Sicily; unmarked, tests as high-karat gold (21K) and silver; bow section 15mm x 7mm; UK P, US 7½; 3.49g.
Condition: Good, for a ring around 300 years old.
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