Art Deco jewellery is the jewellery of the years between the two World Wars, roughly 1920 to 1939. Its signature is geometry: straight lines, stepped outlines, circles and triangles, bold contrasts of colour, and gemstones cut to precise shapes to fit them. Where Edwardian jewellery was lacy and romantic, Art Deco is crisp and architectural, the style of skyscrapers, ocean liners and jazz.
If a ring looks as if it could have been drawn with a ruler and compass, yet glitters with old cut diamonds, there is a good chance it was made in the 1920s or 1930s. Here is a dealer's guide to what defines Art Deco jewellery, how to recognise a genuine piece, and what to look for when buying.
In brief
- Art Deco jewellery dates from roughly 1920 to 1939, between the two World Wars.
- Its signature is geometry: straight lines, stepped outlines and bold contrasts of colour.
- Calibre-cut stones and platinum, white gold or platinum-topped settings are among the clearest signs of the period.
- The opening of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 brought lotus flowers, scarabs and other Egyptian motifs into Art Deco jewellery.
What is Art Deco jewellery?
The name comes from the great Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925, which showcased the new modern style across furniture, architecture, fashion and jewellery. Curiously, the term "Art Deco" itself was only coined in the 1960s, when the style was rediscovered; at the time people simply called it "modern" or "moderne".
The style was already forming before the First World War, and it was shaped by an extraordinary mix of influences: the bright colours of the Ballets Russes, the broken planes of Cubism, the clean lines of the Bauhaus, the speed and polish of the Machine Age, and a fascination with distant cultures, from Persia, India and China to ancient Egypt.
Paris was the undisputed centre, and French Art Deco jewellery remains the most admired today, but fine pieces were made in London, New York, Vienna and across Europe.
The hallmarks of Art Deco style
Geometry and symmetry
Art Deco designers replaced the bows, garlands and flowing curves of earlier periods with geometric forms: rectangles, octagons, chevrons, stepped "ziggurat" outlines, arcs and fan shapes. Designs are usually strictly symmetrical, and even when flowers appear they are stylised into flat, graphic shapes.
Our French Art Deco cluster ring of about 1920 shows the idea perfectly. A natural button pearl sits at the centre of four triangular-cut rubies arranged like the points of a compass, all within a circular border of rose-cut diamonds set in platinum with fine millegrain. The shoulders split as they rise to the bezel, giving the whole ring an architectural feel.
Bold contrasts of colour
Colour in Art Deco jewellery is used in strong, flat blocks: the blue of sapphire, the red of ruby and the green of emerald set against the white of diamonds and platinum, or black onyx paired with white diamonds and rock crystal. Coral, jade, lapis lazuli and enamel all played their part. Many of the most striking pieces rely on just two colours.
Calibre-cut stones and new diamond cuts
One of the surest signs of Art Deco craftsmanship is calibre cutting: small coloured stones cut individually to fit a precise space in the design, so that they form an unbroken line or shape of colour. Diamond cutting was changing too. Baguettes, emerald cuts, trapezes and other step cuts suited the new straight-edged designs, while older stones, including old European cuts, old mine cuts and rose cuts, were still widely used, sometimes reused from earlier jewels.
Platinum, white gold and the "white" look
Platinum, which made Edwardian lacework possible, remained the prestige metal of the 1920s, and much of the finest Art Deco jewellery is white on white: platinum and diamonds, with or without a flash of colour. White gold, developed in the years around the First World War as a cheaper alternative, became widespread. Many French pieces still combine a warm 18ct gold body with platinum-topped settings, so the diamonds look as white as possible.
Our Art Deco emerald ring, made in Italy around 1920, sits right at the moment of transition. A rich green natural emerald of about 0.7ct, likely Colombian, is framed by six old mine cut diamonds in an openwork platinum mount with delicate millegrain, combining the lightness of the Belle Époque with the cleaner lines of Art Deco.
Our French Art Deco bangle of about 1920 shows the two-metal approach in a bracelet: a slim 18ct gold bypass hoop whose crossing ends finish in arrowhead terminals, set with rose-cut diamonds in millegrain platinum settings and calibre-cut sapphires at the base of each point.
Egyptomania: Tutankhamun and the Art Deco jewel
When Howard Carter opened the tomb of Tutankhamun in November 1922, the discovery caused a sensation, and ancient Egypt swept through fashion and design. Lotus flowers, scarabs, sphinxes, pyramids and hieroglyphs appeared on jewellery, translated into the sharp lines and bright colours of the modern style. Egyptian Revival jewellery had been made before, in the 1860s for example, but the 1920s gave it a new, streamlined form.
Two pieces in our collection show this beautifully. Our Art Deco lotus diamond ring, made in France in the mid-1920s and bearing the French mask hallmark for platinum, looks at first like an openwork hourglass; look again and it becomes two lotus flowers facing outwards, set with rose-cut and old mine cut diamonds around a cultured pearl.
Our Art Deco rotating scarab ring of the 1920s takes the ancient Egyptian swivelling scarab seal and remakes it in 18ct gold set with calibre-cut sapphires. The scarab turns in its mount and opens to reveal a hidden compartment, and in place of hieroglyphs its underside is engraved with the monogram "MV".
The 1930s: bolder, cleaner, more sculptural
As the 1920s gave way to the 1930s, Art Deco jewellery became broader and more sculptural. Rings grew chunkier, surfaces became smooth and polished, and designers let a single important stone speak for itself. Long sautoirs and drop earrings, made for the bobbed hair and low backs of the flapper era, gave way to clips, double-clip brooches and strong geometric bracelets.
Our Viennese platinum and Colombian emerald ring of about 1935 is a fine example of this pared-back late Deco look. A certified 3.2ct natural Colombian emerald is set east–west in a smooth, signet-style 950 platinum mount weighing 15g, and the ring carries the Austrian moth hallmark for platinum with a W for Vienna.
Our French Art Deco diamond necklace of the 1930s shows the same restraint: an articulated drop of a 1ct cushion cut diamond beneath two old European cuts, about 1.8ct in all, in 18ct white gold with the French eagle's head mark.
How to recognise genuine Art Deco jewellery
1. Look at the cutting
Old European cuts, old mine cuts and rose cuts, along with hand-cut calibre stones and early step cuts, all point to the period. Calibre stones that fit their spaces precisely, but with slight variations from stone to stone, show handwork. Note that synthetic rubies and sapphires were already available and were sometimes used in genuine period jewellery, so a synthetic stone does not by itself mean a piece is modern.
2. Check the metal and marks
Platinum, white gold and platinum-topped gold are all typical. French pieces may carry the eagle's head for 18ct gold or the mask (mascaron) mark for platinum; British pieces may carry a full set of hallmarks with a date letter. Platinum was not hallmarked in Britain until 1975, so British Art Deco platinum is often unmarked or simply stamped "PLAT". Our guide to antique jewellery eras and how to date a piece explains hallmarks in more detail.
3. Study the construction
Turn the piece over. Genuine Art Deco settings are usually hand-pierced and hand-finished, with open backs, crisp millegrain and fine detail on the gallery. Modern "Art Deco style" pieces, which are very common, especially as engagement rings, are usually cast in one piece, with soft edges, very even millegrain and modern brilliant cut diamonds.
4. Ask about condition
Calibre-set stones are tightly packed and can chip at the edges, and replacements are common. A small chip on an old stone is usually acceptable and reflected in price, but it should always be disclosed.
Is Art Deco jewellery a good buy?
Art Deco jewelry is among the most sought-after of all antique jewellery, and with good reason. Its clean lines sit beautifully with modern clothes, platinum is extremely hard-wearing, and the period produced some of the most inventive designs of the 20th century.
An Art Deco ring makes a wonderful engagement ring, pairing an antique diamond or coloured stone with real character; our comparison of antique and lab-grown diamonds explains why old cut stones are so loved. If you prefer the softer, lacier look of the years just before, read our Edwardian jewellery guide.
Available now
- French Art Deco ruby, diamond and pearl cluster ring, c.1920, 18ct gold and platinum, UK P / US 7¾
- Italian Art Deco emerald and diamond ring, c.1920, platinum, UK L / US 5¾
- Art Deco lotus diamond ring, France, mid-1920s, platinum, UK K½ / US 5½
- Art Deco rotating scarab ring, France, 1920s, 18ct gold, UK L / US 5¾
- Viennese platinum and Colombian emerald ring, c.1935, UK Q½ / US 8¼
- French Art Deco bypass bangle, c.1920, 18ct gold and platinum
- French Art Deco diamond necklace, 1930s, 18ct white gold
Browse our full Art Deco jewellery collection, or see antique engagement rings, Edwardian jewellery and bracelets and bangles. If you would like more photographs or a condition report on any piece, we are always happy to help.
Frequently asked questions
What years are Art Deco jewellery?
Art Deco jewellery is generally dated from about 1920 to 1939, between the two World Wars, though the style was emerging before 1914 and its influence continued into the 1940s.
How can I tell if jewellery is real Art Deco or just "Art Deco style"?
Look for old cut diamonds, hand-cut calibre stones, hand-pierced platinum or platinum-topped settings and period hallmarks. Modern reproductions are usually cast, set with modern brilliant cut diamonds and finished with very uniform millegrain.
What is the difference between Edwardian and Art Deco jewellery?
Both used platinum and diamonds, but Edwardian jewellery (c.1901–1915) is lacy, romantic and decorated with bows and garlands, while Art Deco (c.1920–1939) is geometric, symmetrical and often uses bold blocks of colour.
Is Art Deco jewellery a good choice for an engagement ring?
Very much so. Art Deco rings are usually platinum or gold with platinum-topped settings, both durable for daily wear, and they combine antique diamonds or coloured stones with distinctive, timeless designs. As with any antique ring, have the settings checked from time to time.