Rare Islamic Intaglio Seal Bracelet
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A scarce and distinguished mid-19th-century specimen bracelet, c.1860, mounted in 18K gold and set with an exceptional assembly of engraved Islamic intaglios spanning nearly a millennium - some originating as early as the 10th century under the Seljuk dynasty.The practice of remounting ancient engraved gems into contemporary jewellery flourished during the Georgian and Victorian eras, when young aristocrats returning from the Grand Tour acquired classical cameos and intaglios as cultural souvenirs. While most surviving specimen bracelets focus on Greco-Roman or 19th-century European subjects, this example is notably unusual: its collector ventured far beyond Italy and Greece, assembling seals from Persia and the broader Islamic world.The bracelet is stamped with French 18K gold control marks, with each panel framed in fine wirework. It has a pleasing weight of 20.36g, measures 18cm in length, and remains in excellent condition; all stones are secure.Each intaglio represents a distinct region, script tradition or artistic period:From left to right:1. Early 19th-century oval carnelian intaglioNastaliq calligraphy with elegant, long, sweeping lines and floral elements.2. 18th-century white chalcedony intaglioDecorated with star- and dot-motifs.3. 10th–12th century Seljuk dynasty hematite intaglioCarved in early Kufic script; natural hematite striations visible.4. Mid-17th century octagonal carnelian intaglioWith dots, floral detailing, long calligraphic strokes and a spiralling central motif.5. 14th–15th century green jasper intaglioKufic script arranged in a square formation, the terminals forked in the period style.6. Late 18th–early 19th century octagonal carnelian intaglioNastaliq foliate script with fine floral decoration.7. Another 10th–12th century Seljuk hematite intaglioIn early Kufic script, again with natural mineral streaking on underside.8. 18th-century raised rectangular rock crystal intaglioDecorated with stars; pale, luminous and sharply engraved.9. 19th-century European circular intaglio of HermesDepicting the messenger god with winged petasos; likely a later addition to adjust the bracelet’s length.Details
- France, c.1860
- 18K gold, French control marks
- Length: 18cm
- Weight: 20.36g
- Average panel size: approx. 15 × 14mm
- Condition: Excellent; all stones secure. Minor loss to one carnelian panel. Hematite striations are natural.
This bracelet represents a remarkable 19th-century vision of collecting - one that looked beyond Europe to the Islamic world, re-contextualising centuries-old seals within a refined French gold framework. Pieces of this kind are seldom encountered, and almost never with such chronological breadth or preservation.
A scarce and distinguished mid-19th-century specimen bracelet, c.1860, mounted in 18K gold and set with an exceptional assembly of engraved Islamic intaglios spanning nearly a millennium - some originating as early as the 10th century under the Seljuk dynasty.
The practice of remounting ancient engraved gems into contemporary jewellery flourished during the Georgian and Victorian eras, when young aristocrats returning from the Grand Tour acquired classical cameos and intaglios as cultural souvenirs. While most surviving specimen bracelets focus on Greco-Roman or 19th-century European subjects, this example is notably unusual: its collector ventured far beyond Italy and Greece, assembling seals from Persia and the broader Islamic world.
The bracelet is stamped with French 18K gold control marks, with each panel framed in fine wirework. It has a pleasing weight of 20.36g, measures 18cm in length, and remains in excellent condition; all stones are secure.
Each intaglio represents a distinct region, script tradition or artistic period:
From left to right:
1. Early 19th-century oval carnelian intaglio
Nastaliq calligraphy with elegant, long, sweeping lines and floral elements.
2. 18th-century white chalcedony intaglio
Decorated with star- and dot-motifs.
3. 10th–12th century Seljuk dynasty hematite intaglio
Carved in early Kufic script; natural hematite striations visible.
4. Mid-17th century octagonal carnelian intaglio
With dots, floral detailing, long calligraphic strokes and a spiralling central motif.
5. 14th–15th century green jasper intaglio
Kufic script arranged in a square formation, the terminals forked in the period style.
6. Late 18th–early 19th century octagonal carnelian intaglio
Nastaliq foliate script with fine floral decoration.
7. Another 10th–12th century Seljuk hematite intaglio
In early Kufic script, again with natural mineral streaking on underside.
8. 18th-century raised rectangular rock crystal intaglio
Decorated with stars; pale, luminous and sharply engraved.
9. 19th-century European circular intaglio of Hermes
Depicting the messenger god with winged petasos; likely a later addition to adjust the bracelet’s length.
Details
- France, c.1860
- 18K gold, French control marks
- Length: 18cm
- Weight: 20.36g
- Average panel size: approx. 15 × 14mm
- Condition: Excellent; all stones secure. Minor loss to one carnelian panel. Hematite striations are natural.
This bracelet represents a remarkable 19th-century vision of collecting - one that looked beyond Europe to the Islamic world, re-contextualising centuries-old seals within a refined French gold framework. Pieces of this kind are seldom encountered, and almost never with such chronological breadth or preservation.
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