18th Century Portuguese Paste Ring
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A superb Georgian era paste solitaire ring, made in Portugal and dating to the late 18th century, circa 1760–1780. The ring is centred with a foiled blue paste stone, cut in a cushion form and set within a raised gold collet. Its colour is an appealing pale aqua-blue, with the reflective foil backing giving the stone a cool, seawater-like luminosity.In the 18th century, paste jewellery was worn at the highest levels of society. “Paste” refers to hand-cut and polished lead glass, often foil-backed, created to imitate the colour and brilliance of precious gemstones. Far from being a cheap substitute, the finest paste jewels were technically demanding luxury objects, designed to catch candlelight with exceptional brightness.The technique was refined and popularised by Georges Frédéric Strass, the Alsatian-born jeweller appointed to the court of King Louis XV, whose name gave rise to the term strass. His jewels entered the world of Versailles, Madame du Barry, aristocratic salons and, later, the jewel-conscious society of the Napoleonic age. At its best, paste was prized for its brilliance, novelty and theatrical effect.This Portuguese ring sits firmly within that tradition, with its glowing aqua-blue foiled paste stone set in a raised collet above rococo shoulders. It is a jewel from an age when paste was not an apology for gemstones, but a fashionable material worn by those who understood spectacle, refinement and light.The ring is unmarked, as is common for jewellery of this age, but tests as approximately 15K gold. It weighs 2.06g and is a UK size N½ / US 7. The central paste measures approximately 1cm in diameter.Condition is good for a ring of this age. The paste is secure in its setting, with some light age-related softening to the facet edges. As with all foiled paste jewellery, the ring should be kept away from water and ultrasonic cleaning.A characterful Georgian Portuguese blue paste solitaire ring, combining Rococo goldwork, 18th-century foiled setting technique and an unusually fresh aqua-blue colour.
A superb Georgian era paste solitaire ring, made in Portugal and dating to the late 18th century, circa 1760–1780. The ring is centred with a foiled blue paste stone, cut in a cushion form and set within a raised gold collet. Its colour is an appealing pale aqua-blue, with the reflective foil backing giving the stone a cool, seawater-like luminosity.
In the 18th century, paste jewellery was worn at the highest levels of society. “Paste” refers to hand-cut and polished lead glass, often foil-backed, created to imitate the colour and brilliance of precious gemstones. Far from being a cheap substitute, the finest paste jewels were technically demanding luxury objects, designed to catch candlelight with exceptional brightness.
The technique was refined and popularised by Georges Frédéric Strass, the Alsatian-born jeweller appointed to the court of King Louis XV, whose name gave rise to the term strass. His jewels entered the world of Versailles, Madame du Barry, aristocratic salons and, later, the jewel-conscious society of the Napoleonic age. At its best, paste was prized for its brilliance, novelty and theatrical effect.
This Portuguese ring sits firmly within that tradition, with its glowing aqua-blue foiled paste stone set in a raised collet above rococo shoulders. It is a jewel from an age when paste was not an apology for gemstones, but a fashionable material worn by those who understood spectacle, refinement and light.
The ring is unmarked, as is common for jewellery of this age, but tests as approximately 15K gold. It weighs 2.06g and is a UK size N½ / US 7. The central paste measures approximately 1cm in diameter.
Condition is good for a ring of this age. The paste is secure in its setting, with some light age-related softening to the facet edges. As with all foiled paste jewellery, the ring should be kept away from water and ultrasonic cleaning.
A characterful Georgian Portuguese blue paste solitaire ring, combining Rococo goldwork, 18th-century foiled setting technique and an unusually fresh aqua-blue colour.
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