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A scarce late Mughal period Indian gold and ruby ring dating from the mid-19th century.
The cabochon cut ruby is belcher set in an open-backed mount and weighs approximately 1ct. The ring is crafted in high-karat gold and the shoulders are decorated with typically Indian engraved floral motifs.
The way in which the ruby has been cut is also typical of Indian gem cutting, more specifically from the 18th and 19th centuries, where they would try to preserve as much of the gemstone as possible. Consequently, the gems are cut and faceted in a slightly uneven, naturalistic manner.
Although the ring was made in India, it shows strong European influence in its design; notably with the open claws used for gem-setting which was typical of European rings of the early 19th century. The influence of the West on Mughal jewels can also be seen in metalworking technology introduced by European jewellers, who were welcomed at court and in some cases went on to play a role in imperial workshops. However the craftsmanship of this design, from the engraving style to the way the gem was cut reveals that the ring has been crafted with an Indian hand.
Both sapphires and rubies are both gem varieties of the mineral “corundum” as they share the exact same chemical composition and structure. Today, gem dealers in the West debate the borderline between what classifies as a ruby versus a pink sapphire - a seemingly subjective spectrum. However historically, the word ruby referred to shades of red, which technically included pink. There are also cultural differences in the interpretation of ruby versus pink sapphire. In gem-producing nations such as India, Sri-Lanka, Pakistan and Burma, pink coloured corundum has always been considered as ‘ruby’, while in many western countries pink shades are classified as ‘pink sapphire’. The present corundum stone is on the borderline - we have labelled it as 'ruby' in this listing due to the rings Indian origin.
This ring is unmarked but tests as 22K gold. Despite being about 160 years old, it remains in great condition and the high-karat gold mount still retains its alluring shine and buttery glow.
UK size O, US size 7
The ring weighs 6 grams. The front of the ring measures 10mm across, whilst the back measures 2.5mm wide.
In the Mughal dynasty, emperors were lovers of precious stones, with numerous references showing the strong cultural belief in the magical properties of gemstones. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans.
A scarce late Mughal period Indian gold and ruby ring dating from the mid-19th century.
The cabochon cut ruby is belcher set in an open-backed mount and weighs approximately 1ct. The ring is crafted in high-karat gold and the shoulders are decorated with typically Indian engraved floral motifs.
The way in which the ruby has been cut is also typical of Indian gem cutting, more specifically from the 18th and 19th centuries, where they would try to preserve as much of the gemstone as possible. Consequently, the gems are cut and faceted in a slightly uneven, naturalistic manner.
Although the ring was made in India, it shows strong European influence in its design; notably with the open claws used for gem-setting which was typical of European rings of the early 19th century. The influence of the West on Mughal jewels can also be seen in metalworking technology introduced by European jewellers, who were welcomed at court and in some cases went on to play a role in imperial workshops. However the craftsmanship of this design, from the engraving style to the way the gem was cut reveals that the ring has been crafted with an Indian hand.
Both sapphires and rubies are both gem varieties of the mineral “corundum” as they share the exact same chemical composition and structure. Today, gem dealers in the West debate the borderline between what classifies as a ruby versus a pink sapphire - a seemingly subjective spectrum. However historically, the word ruby referred to shades of red, which technically included pink. There are also cultural differences in the interpretation of ruby versus pink sapphire. In gem-producing nations such as India, Sri-Lanka, Pakistan and Burma, pink coloured corundum has always been considered as ‘ruby’, while in many western countries pink shades are classified as ‘pink sapphire’. The present corundum stone is on the borderline - we have labelled it as 'ruby' in this listing due to the rings Indian origin.
This ring is unmarked but tests as 22K gold. Despite being about 160 years old, it remains in great condition and the high-karat gold mount still retains its alluring shine and buttery glow.
UK size O, US size 7
The ring weighs 6 grams. The front of the ring measures 10mm across, whilst the back measures 2.5mm wide.
In the Mughal dynasty, emperors were lovers of precious stones, with numerous references showing the strong cultural belief in the magical properties of gemstones. As much as these gems were a symbol of the opulence and dignity of the empire, they were also treasured as protective talismans.
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