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A fine example of a scarce seven-stone ruby and rose cut diamond ring dating from the early 18th century, circa 1700. The ring was made in Western Europe (probably Germany) and truly encapsulates the beauty and grandeur of the Baroque period.
This ring, with its enamel inlayed underside, carved shoulders and ‘pie crust’ edges is typical of rings dating from the second half of the 17th century. However the combination of both gold and silver, as well as the rounded setting for the central stone indicates an early 18th century date.
During the late Baroque era, bows became an indispensable element of fashion and it became popular to pin jewels against ribboned bows; and soon, bow-shaped jewellery such as the Sévigné brooch and the seven-stone bow ring became widespread. While regional or design variations may result in different bezel styles, gem selections, sizes, or cuts, the essential seven-stone arrangement remained unchanged for over a century.
For similar examples, see items 769 and 883 in the Koch Collection; AF.1590, AF.1444, and AF.1574 in the British Museum; and items BK-NM-5752, BK-NM-5755, BK-NM-5751 in the Rijksmuseum Collection (photos on last slide).
In the present example, an oval-shaped 1.17ct ruby is surrounded by diamonds of varying sizes. All the stones are set in closed back cut-down collet settings. The gemstones are foil-backed to bring their lustre to their best quality and the triangular facets of the rose cuts allow the diamonds to glisten more beautifully in candlelight. Towards the end of the 17th century, goldsmiths began to make diamond settings from silver as they believed that only a white metal mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. The underside of the bezel is fluted, the grooves inlayed with black enamel with white enamel dots, typical ornamentation of the late 17th - early 18th century. The shoulders are chased with scrollwork leading to a smooth D-shaped shank.
UK ring size M, US size 6.25
The ring is of a good size and weighs 5.93 grams, the bow section measures 20mm x 10mm on its longest axes. The ring tests as 14K gold and silver. The ring remains in great condition despite being over 320 years old. While the enamel to the fluted underside remains in good condition, minimal enamel remains on the carved shoulders. One of the small diamonds is a different cut, and is possibly a historic replacement. Under loupe magnification there are some age-related abrasions to the facet junctions commensurate with age. The ruby approximately 1.17 carats in size, we do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts, particularly in rubover settings where the full stone is not visible/ partially covered.
A truly remarkable survivor!
A fine example of a scarce seven-stone ruby and rose cut diamond ring dating from the early 18th century, circa 1700. The ring was made in Western Europe (probably Germany) and truly encapsulates the beauty and grandeur of the Baroque period.
This ring, with its enamel inlayed underside, carved shoulders and ‘pie crust’ edges is typical of rings dating from the second half of the 17th century. However the combination of both gold and silver, as well as the rounded setting for the central stone indicates an early 18th century date.
During the late Baroque era, bows became an indispensable element of fashion and it became popular to pin jewels against ribboned bows; and soon, bow-shaped jewellery such as the Sévigné brooch and the seven-stone bow ring became widespread. While regional or design variations may result in different bezel styles, gem selections, sizes, or cuts, the essential seven-stone arrangement remained unchanged for over a century.
For similar examples, see items 769 and 883 in the Koch Collection; AF.1590, AF.1444, and AF.1574 in the British Museum; and items BK-NM-5752, BK-NM-5755, BK-NM-5751 in the Rijksmuseum Collection (photos on last slide).
In the present example, an oval-shaped 1.17ct ruby is surrounded by diamonds of varying sizes. All the stones are set in closed back cut-down collet settings. The gemstones are foil-backed to bring their lustre to their best quality and the triangular facets of the rose cuts allow the diamonds to glisten more beautifully in candlelight. Towards the end of the 17th century, goldsmiths began to make diamond settings from silver as they believed that only a white metal mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. The underside of the bezel is fluted, the grooves inlayed with black enamel with white enamel dots, typical ornamentation of the late 17th - early 18th century. The shoulders are chased with scrollwork leading to a smooth D-shaped shank.
UK ring size M, US size 6.25
The ring is of a good size and weighs 5.93 grams, the bow section measures 20mm x 10mm on its longest axes. The ring tests as 14K gold and silver. The ring remains in great condition despite being over 320 years old. While the enamel to the fluted underside remains in good condition, minimal enamel remains on the carved shoulders. One of the small diamonds is a different cut, and is possibly a historic replacement. Under loupe magnification there are some age-related abrasions to the facet junctions commensurate with age. The ruby approximately 1.17 carats in size, we do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts, particularly in rubover settings where the full stone is not visible/ partially covered.
A truly remarkable survivor!
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