Signet rings are the jewels we are asked about most. They are also among the oldest jewels still worn for their original purpose: to say who you are. Here is what to look for when buying an antique or vintage signet ring.
What makes a ring a signet?
A signet ring carries a design meant to be pressed into wax or clay, so it reads in reverse on the ring and correctly in the seal. Before signatures were commonplace, it was a person's mark on documents and letters. The design may be engraved straight into the gold, or cut into a stone as an intaglio. Some signets were sold with a plain, uncarved stone, ready for the owner's own crest.
Dating a signet ring by era
- Ancient Roman (1st–4th century AD). Carved hardstone or glass intaglios of gods, heroes and animals. Many survive only as loose stones, later set in new mounts.
- Medieval and Renaissance. Heavy silver or bronze rings engraved directly with initials, fleurs-de-lys or merchant's marks.
- Georgian (1714–1837). Carnelian, agate and glass seals, often octagonal, sometimes dated; many were converted from fob or desk seals.
- Victorian (1837–1901). Heavier gold mounts with sculpted shoulders, and the great age of bloodstone, carnelian and banded agate crest rings.
- Edwardian and vintage. Shield-shaped stones, cleaner lines, and fully hallmarked English rings from Birmingham, Chester and London.
The stones
Carnelian, bloodstone, banded agate, sardonyx and lapis lazuli dominate, because they are hard enough to engrave finely and soft enough to work by hand. Bloodstone, dark green with red flecks, was a particular Victorian favourite for men's rings. Read more in our guide to bloodstone signet rings.
Crests, coats of arms and mottoes
Heraldic signets are where history becomes personal. A full coat of arms, a crest such as a greyhound or a dove, or a motto like Frangas non flectes ("you may break me, but you shall not bend me") or Dum spiro spero ("while I breathe, I hope") can sometimes lead to a specific family. We research every crest we can, and occasionally that research leads to a named noble line, as with our Romanian coat of arms ring for the Ritter von Tabora.
Wearing someone else's crest is perfectly normal for collectors. If you would rather wear your own, an uncarved antique stone can be engraved today.
Men's, women's and pinky signets
Signet rings were worn by men and women alike. In Britain they are traditionally worn on the little finger, which is why so many antique signets come in small sizes and suit a pinky perfectly. Larger Victorian and Edwardian men's signets are generally straightforward to resize; see our ring sizing guide.
What to check when buying
- Crisp engraving that still makes a clean impression.
- Chips or cracks at the stone's edges, the most vulnerable point.
- Hallmarks or import marks, and a description that dates the stone and mount separately.
- Wear consistent with age, especially on the shoulders and back of the band.
Available now
- Victorian 18ct gold banded agate signet, c.1870
- Berlin iron signet ring, c.1820, cast with faith, hope and charity
- Roman Triton intaglio in a 19th-century French gold signet mount
- French pinchbeck signet ring, c.1820
Browse all antique and vintage signet rings.