A Georgian diamond ring does not try to look like a modern one. It glows rather than flashes, and under candlelight it comes alive. Understanding why will help you choose and care for one.
The Georgian period
In British jewellery, the Georgian era runs from 1714 to 1837, the reigns of the four Georges and William IV. It covers Rococo exuberance, neoclassical restraint and the early sentimental jewellery that the Victorians would later make their own. Similar styles were being made across Europe, which is why many of our "Georgian" pieces are French, Dutch, German or Spanish.
The rose cut
A rose cut diamond has a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets, rising to a point like an opening rosebud. It was cut to keep as much of the rough crystal as possible, so stones are often shallow and slightly irregular. Earlier still, the table cut simply polished a flat top onto the natural octahedral crystal. Both cuts appear together on our c.1720 Spanish diamond ring.
Foil and closed backs
Most Georgian diamonds sit in closed settings, with a thin sheet of metal foil behind each stone. In a world lit by candles and oil lamps, the foil reflected light back up through the shallow stones, adding brightness and sometimes a subtle tint. Diamonds were usually set in silver, which flattered their whiteness, on top of a gold body that sat against the skin. This is the "silver-topped gold" you will see in our descriptions.
Caring for foiled jewellery
- Keep it dry. Water and cleaning fluids can seep into closed settings and tarnish or discolour the foil. Remove the ring before washing your hands or swimming.
- Never use an ultrasonic cleaner. A soft, dry brush is all it needs.
- Expect some silver to darken. Patina on the silver top is natural and part of the character.
- Have resizing done by a specialist who understands antique settings.
What to look for
Check that the stones are secure and the foils are bright rather than dark or blotchy. Look for the hand-made details: the crimped edges of the collets, the openwork or pierced gallery, and decoration on the shoulders. Cluster rings in flower and star shapes are particularly characteristic of the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Available now
- Georgian diamond floral cluster ring, c.1780
- Baroque diamond bow ring, early 18th century
- Spanish rose and table cut diamond ring, c.1720
Browse all rose cut diamond jewellery, our Georgian jewellery and antique engagement rings.