Winged Aquamarine Brooch
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A rare French brooch, c.1890, in which two diamond-set wings fold around a faceted aquamarine briolette, crowned with a natural grey pearl.Wings were a favourite motif of late 19th-century jewellers, borrowed from classical images of Victory and Mercury and used to suggest flight, freedom and devotion. Here they are made sculptural: they curve around the drop as if carrying it, and a diamond-set band crosses the stone like a strap. It is an unusual design, and we have not seen another quite like it.The briolette is a natural aquamarine, faceted all over so that it catches light from every angle. The wings are set with 65 diamonds: old mine cuts, with rose cuts for the smallest stones. All are in silver-topped 18K gold and open-backed, which keeps the stones bright and easy to clean. The pearl is natural, as is expected of a jewel of this date.The brooch fitting is very secure, with a discreet locking catch. Faded French marks are partially visible.Equally at home on a lapel, a coat or a hat. A truly unusual jewel.Details: c.1890; France; silver-topped 18K gold; aquamarine briolette 2 × 0.9 × 0.9 cm; 65 old mine and rose-cut diamonds; natural pearl; 2.5 cm wide × 2.8 cm tall; pin 2.3 cm; 5.71g.Condition: Good overall, especially considering the fully faceted briolette. Marks faded.
A rare French brooch, c.1890, in which two diamond-set wings fold around a faceted aquamarine briolette, crowned with a natural grey pearl.
Wings were a favourite motif of late 19th-century jewellers, borrowed from classical images of Victory and Mercury and used to suggest flight, freedom and devotion. Here they are made sculptural: they curve around the drop as if carrying it, and a diamond-set band crosses the stone like a strap. It is an unusual design, and we have not seen another quite like it.
The briolette is a natural aquamarine, faceted all over so that it catches light from every angle. The wings are set with 65 diamonds: old mine cuts, with rose cuts for the smallest stones. All are in silver-topped 18K gold and open-backed, which keeps the stones bright and easy to clean. The pearl is natural, as is expected of a jewel of this date.
The brooch fitting is very secure, with a discreet locking catch. Faded French marks are partially visible.
Equally at home on a lapel, a coat or a hat. A truly unusual jewel.
Details: c.1890; France; silver-topped 18K gold; aquamarine briolette 2 × 0.9 × 0.9 cm; 65 old mine and rose-cut diamonds; natural pearl; 2.5 cm wide × 2.8 cm tall; pin 2.3 cm; 5.71g.
Condition: Good overall, especially considering the fully faceted briolette. Marks faded.
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