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An Indian enamelled gold navaratna ring of the mid 19th century, set all the way round with the nine sacred gems.A navaratna (‘nine gems’) brings together the stones of the nine celestial influences of Hindu astrology: ruby for the Sun, pearl for the Moon, red coral for Mars, emerald for Mercury, yellow sapphire for Jupiter, diamond for Venus, blue sapphire for Saturn, hessonite garnet for Rahu and cat’s-eye for Ketu. Worn together, they were believed to bring balance and protection, and the combination has long been held sacred and royal across South and Southeast Asia.Making one properly took time. As Oppi Untracht records in Traditional Jewelry of India (1997), the stones were first blessed by a priest, then each was set by the goldsmith at a moment auspicious for its planet, so a ring could take more than a year to complete.The stones are held in closed-back kundan settings of high-karat gold, forming an eternity band. Inside, the band is enamelled in red, white and green with a floral pattern, and green enamel runs along the edges: a hidden pleasure for the wearer.It came to us as a pair with a second navaratna ring, which we are offering separately, will be on the website on Monday.Details: Mid 19th century; India; 23K gold; ruby, diamond, emerald, yellow sapphire, cat’s-eye, blue sapphire, hessonite garnet, red coral and pearl; each gem section 5.33 × 7.31 mm; 5.31g; UK P½, US 8.Condition: Very good. Reasonable wear to the enamel; the diamond is included.
An Indian enamelled gold navaratna ring of the mid 19th century, set all the way round with the nine sacred gems.
A navaratna (‘nine gems’) brings together the stones of the nine celestial influences of Hindu astrology: ruby for the Sun, pearl for the Moon, red coral for Mars, emerald for Mercury, yellow sapphire for Jupiter, diamond for Venus, blue sapphire for Saturn, hessonite garnet for Rahu and cat’s-eye for Ketu. Worn together, they were believed to bring balance and protection, and the combination has long been held sacred and royal across South and Southeast Asia.
Making one properly took time. As Oppi Untracht records in Traditional Jewelry of India (1997), the stones were first blessed by a priest, then each was set by the goldsmith at a moment auspicious for its planet, so a ring could take more than a year to complete.
The stones are held in closed-back kundan settings of high-karat gold, forming an eternity band. Inside, the band is enamelled in red, white and green with a floral pattern, and green enamel runs along the edges: a hidden pleasure for the wearer.
It came to us as a pair with a second navaratna ring, which we are offering separately, will be on the website on Monday.
Details: Mid 19th century; India; 23K gold; ruby, diamond, emerald, yellow sapphire, cat’s-eye, blue sapphire, hessonite garnet, red coral and pearl; each gem section 5.33 × 7.31 mm; 5.31g; UK P½, US 8.
Condition: Very good. Reasonable wear to the enamel; the diamond is included.
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