Antique Natural Purple Pearl Cluster
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A rare survivor, this mid-19th century cluster ring is centred on an extraordinary natural purple saltwater pearl, most likely of South Sea origin. In this period, such pearls were typically harvested from Tahitian waters, then under French colonial influence. Their naturally rich tones and organic origins made them prized by the European elite - Empress Eugénie of France is known to have worn similar examples, introducing them to Parisian court fashion.The ring itself is French, dating to circa 1850. It is crafted in high karat yellow gold with a silver-topped bezel in the typical 19th-century taste, encircling the pearl with a halo of ten rose cut diamonds in open-backed settings. The diamonds are housed in a silver gallery with delicate pierced detailing and a softly scalloped outline.The shoulders are crafted in floral Rococo style, with finely chased foliate scrolls tapering into a slender gold band. The shank bears clear French control marks: a horse’s head hallmark used between 1838 and 1919, confirming manufacture in 18K gold, alongside a lozenge-shaped maker’s mark (AH).The pearl measures approx. 5 × 3.5 × 4mm and displays rich lilac overtones - a highly unusual natural hue.Measurements:
- UK size P / US size 7.75
- Weight: 2.68g
- Bezel: 10 × 8mm
Condition:Very good antique condition. Under magnification, one rose cut setting shows a minor gap, likely from historic wear or re-tipping, but this does not detract from the overall integrity or appearance. The pearl remains securely set, with bright, lustrous nacre.
A rare survivor, this mid-19th century cluster ring is centred on an extraordinary natural purple saltwater pearl, most likely of South Sea origin. In this period, such pearls were typically harvested from Tahitian waters, then under French colonial influence. Their naturally rich tones and organic origins made them prized by the European elite - Empress Eugénie of France is known to have worn similar examples, introducing them to Parisian court fashion.
The ring itself is French, dating to circa 1850. It is crafted in high karat yellow gold with a silver-topped bezel in the typical 19th-century taste, encircling the pearl with a halo of ten rose cut diamonds in open-backed settings. The diamonds are housed in a silver gallery with delicate pierced detailing and a softly scalloped outline.
The shoulders are crafted in floral Rococo style, with finely chased foliate scrolls tapering into a slender gold band. The shank bears clear French control marks: a horse’s head hallmark used between 1838 and 1919, confirming manufacture in 18K gold, alongside a lozenge-shaped maker’s mark (AH).
The pearl measures approx. 5 × 3.5 × 4mm and displays rich lilac overtones - a highly unusual natural hue.
Measurements:
- UK size P / US size 7.75
- Weight: 2.68g
- Bezel: 10 × 8mm
Condition:
Very good antique condition. Under magnification, one rose cut setting shows a minor gap, likely from historic wear or re-tipping, but this does not detract from the overall integrity or appearance. The pearl remains securely set, with bright, lustrous nacre.
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