Today, a woman who takes vows as a nun gives up her personal wealth and jewellery. Three hundred years ago in Spain, that was not always the case. Some of the most beautiful diamond rings of the early 18th century were made for women entering convents.
The ring
Our 18th-century Spanish diamond ring dates from around 1720. Its substantial oval face is set with an assortment of early hand-cut diamonds, both rose cuts and table cuts. Eight diamonds of varying shapes surround the central panel, each in its own gold rubover setting, closed at the back and backed with foil. Chased and pierced decoration continues onto the shoulders.
The irregularity is the point. Early Iberian jewellery has a wonderfully uneven quality, with each stone cut by hand to make the most of the rough crystal rather than to match a standard. The foils behind the stones were there to throw light back through them in the low, flickering light of candles, when this ring would have looked very different from how it looks under electric light today.
Rings for brides of Christ
In 18th-century Spain it was customary for a nun to be given a ring when she took her vows and became a "bride of Christ". Nuns from wealthy families, especially those entering prosperous religious orders, were often given particularly lavish gold rings set with diamonds by their relatives.
Some of these orders were wealthy indeed. The Conceptionists, for example, could have large libraries of rare books, scientific and musical instruments, and even servants.
A group of nine such "nuns' rings" from a Spanish convent, dating from the late 17th to early 18th century, is held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (L.2015.72.18a–i). One of them is closely similar to our ring. Rings of this kind are exceedingly rare and are found only in Spain and Mexico.
Why it matters
We cannot know who first wore our ring, and it may never have belonged to a nun. But it comes from exactly the same world of Spanish goldsmithing and the same taste for richly set, candle-lit diamonds. It is a reminder that the convent and the court of 18th-century Spain were never as far apart as we might imagine.
The details
- Spain, circa 1720
- Tests as approx. 18K gold; unmarked, as is usual for the period
- Foil-backed rose and table cut diamonds in closed rubover settings
- Bezel 12 x 9mm; weight 5.68g
- UK size N / US 6¾
- Excellent, sturdy and wearable condition for its age
View the Spanish diamond ring, or browse antique rose cut diamond jewellery. For more on foiled diamonds, read our guide to Georgian rose cut diamonds.