The signet ring is the most English of jewels. For centuries it was a working tool, pressed into hot wax to seal a letter, and a badge of family, profession and loyalty. Today it is one of the most sought-after pieces of antique jewellery in the world, worn by men and women alike, and Japan is no exception. This guide, written by a London dealer who handles hundreds of signet rings, explains the different types, how to read crests and hallmarks, how sizing works and how to buy an antique signet ring directly from England.
Antique or vintage?
An antique signet ring is at least 100 years old; a vintage one is roughly 20 to 100 years old. Before the 20th century most signets were working seals, cut in reverse so the impression read correctly in wax. By the vintage era, with gummed envelopes and signatures universal, the signet had become chiefly a mark of family, school or regiment. Both are worth owning; what matters is that the age is described honestly.
The main types of signet ring
- Gold signets engraved directly. A solid gold head, oval, cushion or shield-shaped, engraved with a crest, coat of arms or monogram. Typical of the 19th and early 20th centuries.
- Stone-set seal rings. A hardstone such as carnelian, bloodstone, sardonyx, banded agate or amethyst, engraved as a seal. Hardstone was ideal because hot wax does not stick to it.
- Intaglio signets. An intaglio is any stone carved in reverse; many were made in the classical taste with gods, emperors and philosophers, and some set ancient Roman stones in later mounts. Glass intaglios after James and William Tassie were a Georgian fashion.
- Swivel and locket signets. Georgian and Victorian variations with a revolving bezel, or a hinged seal hiding a compartment.
Cameos, carved in relief rather than reverse, are not seals, but they are often collected alongside intaglio rings.
Georgian and Victorian gold signets
| Period | Dates | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Georgian | 1714–1837 | Oval or octagonal bezels with carnelian, agate or glass intaglios; broad tapering shoulders; high-carat gold; often unmarked; many converted from fob seals |
| Early and mid-Victorian | c.1837–1885 | Oval stone-set heads, chased or scrolling shoulders, archaeological revival wirework |
| Late Victorian and Edwardian | c.1885–1915 | Solid gold heads engraved with crests or monograms, often fully hallmarked in Birmingham or Chester |
| Art Deco and Retro | c.1920–1950 | Cleaner geometric heads, heavier "tank" forms |
| Ancient Roman and Medieval | Antiquity to c.1500 | Rare, specialist seal rings in gold, silver and bronze |
Family crests and mottoes
In British heraldry the crest is the device that sits above the shield in a coat of arms: a lion, a hand holding a dagger, a bird, a tower. On signet rings it is often shown alone, sometimes on a wreath or within a garter, and sometimes with the family motto on a ribbon. The engraving can often be traced to a family through heraldic reference books, which is part of the pleasure of collecting. Many families shared similar crests, so treat any identification as a lead rather than a certainty. If you would like your own crest or monogram cut into an uncarved head, a skilled hand engraver can do it today, but we would never recommend removing original engraving from an antique ring.
Reading the hallmarks
- Date letter: British marks usually give the year of assay.
- Carat: 18ct from 1798; 9ct, 12ct and 15ct from 1854; 12ct and 15ct were abolished in 1932, when 14ct was introduced. A British 15ct signet is therefore Victorian or Edwardian, or from the very early 1930s at the latest.
- Duty mark: the sovereign's head, struck between 1784 and 1890, is a strong sign of an antique ring.
- No marks at all: perfectly normal for many Georgian and Victorian rings. The gold is tested and the ring dated by style, construction and wear.
For more detail, see our Journal article on how to date a gold signet ring.
Men's and women's wear
Signet rings were made for both men and women, and today they are worn by both. In Britain the traditional place is the little finger, which is why so many antique signets are in small sizes that also suit a woman's ring or middle finger. Heavier late Victorian and vintage signets suit men who want a ring for every day; slender Georgian stone-set seals look wonderful on any hand. Browse our antique men's rings as well as the signet ring collection.
Sizing
Every ring listing on our site shows the Japanese size (gō), so you can compare it with a ring you already wear. Plain gold shanks can usually be resized, and we offer complimentary resizing where feasible; we will tell you honestly if a ring should not be altered. Resized rings are final sale; otherwise you have 30 days to return.
Signet rings available now
- Georgian Tassie locket ring, c.1820, with a hinged secret compartment.
- Victorian 18ct gold banded agate signet, c.1870.
- Victorian carnelian intaglio ring with the head of a Roman emperor.
- Berlin iron signet ring, c.1820, with the symbols of faith, hope and charity.
- Medieval French silver signet, c.1480, attributed to the Duhamel family.
- Gold signet with an ancient Roman Triton intaglio.
- Vintage gold amethyst intaglio ring, c.1940.
- Polish ruby signet ring, 1921–1930.
See also our intaglio rings, ancient rings and medieval rings.
Buying in person in England
Signet rings turn up at every good English market. Our favourite is Sunbury Antiques Market at Kempton Park, on the second and last Tuesday of every month (over 700 stalls; early entry from 6:30am for £5, free from 8am to 2pm). On Saturdays, go deep into the indoor arcades of Portobello Road rather than the street stalls; on weekdays, Grays Antiques at 58 Davies Street, Mayfair, is open 10:00 to 18:00. Our Shoreditch showroom is open by appointment. Our guide to buying antique jewellery in England has more.
Buying direct from England
Many signet rings sold in Japan were bought in England by resellers, buying agents or live-stream sellers, with their margin added on top. Most European dealers do not ship to Japan; we do, and buying direct means a better price and proper paperwork.
- Prices in yen; pay by card, PayPal, Apple Pay, Google Pay or UnionPay.
- Free insured delivery: DHL Express over £400, Royal Mail International Tracked below.
- Correct customs paperwork: accurate description and HS classification, full and honest declared value, a UK origin statement under the UK–Japan EPA where the ring qualifies, and antique classification for rings over 100 years old.
- Import tax in Japan: for personal imports, consumption tax of 10% on 60% of the price (about 6%) plus the carrier's handling fee, paid on delivery; taxable value of ¥10,000 or less is exempt. UK-origin gold jewellery and antiques over 100 years old are duty-free.
- Discounts to help with duties and taxes, especially on higher-value pieces and multi-piece or trade orders.
- Certificate of authenticity and information sheet with every ring.
Our seller details for Japan are on our legal notice page.
Get in touch
Email us at info@ravensburyantiques.com; we are more than happy to help. Ask for videos in natural light, close-ups of the engraving and the hallmarks, or a wax impression of the seal. And if you are hunting for something particular, a crest, a stone or a size, tell us, and we will look out for it at the markets.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a signet ring and an intaglio ring?
A signet ring is any ring made to seal or to carry a personal device. An intaglio ring is set with a stone carved in reverse; many intaglio rings are signets.
Can women wear an antique signet ring?
Yes. Many antique signets are small enough for a woman's ring or middle finger, and signets have always been worn by women as well as men.
Are unmarked gold signet rings genuine?
Often, yes. Many Georgian and Victorian rings were never hallmarked. The gold should be tested and the ring dated by its style and construction.
Is there import duty on a signet ring sent to Japan?
UK-origin gold jewellery is duty-free under the UK–Japan EPA with an origin statement, and rings over 100 years old can be classed as antiques. Consumption tax of about 6% of the price and the carrier's fee usually apply.