A South Indian talismanic gold Navaratna ring dating from the early 20th century. 

A navratna is composed of nine gems that represent the nine cosmic influences from the Hindu system of astrology. This combination of nine gems has been regarded as sacred and royal in many Asian countries since ancient times. The ruby at the centre represents the sun, surrounded by diamond as Venus, pearl as the moon, red coral as Mars, hessonite as Ragu (the ascending lunar node), sapphire as Saturn, cat's eye chrysoberyl as Ketu (the descending lunar node), yellow sapphire as Jupiter and emerald as Mercury.

The gem-set cluster takes a floral form, and all of the gemstones are set in foiled, closed-back kundan settings. The ring is crafted in high-karat gold and the shoulders are decorated with a repoussé-work foliate design which tapers towards down the back of the shank.

UK size O 1/2, US size 7.5, 

The ring weighs 8.6 grams, and tests as 22K gold. The inside of the band is also stamped with ’916’ indicating 22K. The cluster face measures 22 x 20mm, whilst the band measures 3mm wide at the back. The largest stone, the ruby cabochon weighs approximately 0.86cts, whilst the smaller stones have a diameter of 4mm. The yellow gold has a warm patina, and the ring has a low profile to allow for comfortable wear..

According to Oppi Untracht in his book ‘Traditional Jewelry of India’ (1997), the proper construction of a navaratna ring can take a very long time, ‘before commissioning such a ring from a goldsmith, one first brings the selected stones to a priest, who blesses them. At an auspicious time, they are then given to a goldsmith who will set thing in high-quality gold (22 karat). According to orthodox practice, when the gold setting is ready, each of the stones corresponding to a planet is set in the correct order of priority and position, at a time auspicious for the planet. If this procedure is followed, the process might take more than a year to complete.’

The Edwardian era of jewellery, named after King Edward VII, spanned from 1901 to 1910, although stylistically it is often extended through to 1914. Edwardian jewellery was characterised by a move away from the large and ostentatious jewellery pieces of the Victorian era towards smaller and more refined pieces. Delicate and feminine designs were popular, featuring lace-like filigree work and floral motifs. Platinum became increasingly popular as a metal of choice and the use of colour in jewellery decreased, with the focus on the brilliance of diamonds and the elegance of pearls. The pieces were light, intricate, and eminently elegant, and are perfect for anyone looking for a touch of refined glamour.

DELIVERY

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RETURNS

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Conditions: Buyers are responsible for return shipping costs. All items are to be returned in their original condition and packaging. Buyer damaged items and items bought on layaway are ineligible for returns. Items over £2500 can be returned for store credit only.

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