Antique Indian Ruby Ring
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A rare Mughal gem-set gold ring dating to around 1850, very likely made in Hyderabad; one of the great centres of Indian goldsmithing during the late Mughal period.Crafted in exceptionally high karat gold, testing approximately 22K, the ring takes an unusual wraparound form with a curved rectangular bezel designed to sit closely against the finger. The central cluster is set with polki-cut foiled rock crystal surrounding a rectangular cabochon ruby, while the shoulders and band are further decorated with vivid cabochon rubies in enclosed collet settings, creating an almost eternity-style arrangement around the entire ring.The pale stones are not diamonds, but rock crystal; thin polished slices mounted over reflective foil in the traditional Mughal manner. Foiling enhanced luminosity and depth in candlelight and was an important part of historic Indian gem-setting practice. The ring also retains its traditional lac core beneath the gold mount. Lac; a natural resin compound; was commonly used in Indian jewellery to support gemstones within very high karat gold settings, as pure gold alone was too soft to structurally support complex jewels.The side profile is especially attractive, with finely engraved geometric decoration complementing the architectural arrangement of the stones.Weight: 10.91gSize: UK P 1/2 / US 8Head measures approximately 16 x 11mmTests as approximately 22K goldIn remarkably good condition for its age and fully wearable today, with all stones secure and crisp engraved detail throughout. A rare and highly distinctive example of 19th century Mughal jewellery.
A rare Mughal gem-set gold ring dating to around 1850, very likely made in Hyderabad; one of the great centres of Indian goldsmithing during the late Mughal period.
Crafted in exceptionally high karat gold, testing approximately 22K, the ring takes an unusual wraparound form with a curved rectangular bezel designed to sit closely against the finger. The central cluster is set with polki-cut foiled rock crystal surrounding a rectangular cabochon ruby, while the shoulders and band are further decorated with vivid cabochon rubies in enclosed collet settings, creating an almost eternity-style arrangement around the entire ring.
The pale stones are not diamonds, but rock crystal; thin polished slices mounted over reflective foil in the traditional Mughal manner. Foiling enhanced luminosity and depth in candlelight and was an important part of historic Indian gem-setting practice. The ring also retains its traditional lac core beneath the gold mount. Lac; a natural resin compound; was commonly used in Indian jewellery to support gemstones within very high karat gold settings, as pure gold alone was too soft to structurally support complex jewels.
The side profile is especially attractive, with finely engraved geometric decoration complementing the architectural arrangement of the stones.
Weight: 10.91g
Size: UK P 1/2 / US 8
Head measures approximately 16 x 11mm
Tests as approximately 22K gold
In remarkably good condition for its age and fully wearable today, with all stones secure and crisp engraved detail throughout. A rare and highly distinctive example of 19th century Mughal jewellery.
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