Look closely at antique rings and you will notice that a surprising number were not born as rings at all. A diamond bumblebee was once a tie pin. A glass seal engraved bon soir once sat on a gentleman's desk. A Roman gem spent centuries loose before a Parisian goldsmith gave it a ring. These conversions are part of jewellery history, and they explain why so many beautiful small jewels survive today.
Stickpins
In the 19th century, men wore stickpins in their cravats and ties, and the heads were often tiny works of art: insects, animals, horseshoes, snakes and crosses set with diamonds and enamel. When cravats went out of fashion, those heads were left without a purpose. Mounted on a ring band, they become some of the most charming rings you can find. We have sold a rose cut diamond bumblebee with ruby eyes and an enamelled snake coiled around a diamond cross, both converted from stickpins. Because the heads were made to lie flat against fabric, they also sit beautifully low on the finger.
Fob seals and desk seals
Before envelopes, letters were sealed with wax, and everyone of standing needed a seal. Men hung seals from their watch chains (fobs), and desks held seals or rotating "seal wheels" with several small engraved stones. Many carry sentimental mottoes and images: two doves with l'amitié (friendship), a candle snuffer with bon soir, a sealed envelope. Set into a ring, these little messages can be worn again.
Ancient gems in later mounts
Engraved stones were valued long after their original settings were lost or melted down. Collectors on the Grand Tour bought ancient intaglios in Italy and had them mounted at home. Our Roman Triton intaglio ring combines a jasper of the 2nd to 3rd century AD with a 19th-century French gold mount.
Does a conversion affect value?
It depends on the piece. For a collector of untouched originals, a conversion matters. For most people who want a beautiful, wearable antique, a well-made conversion is a positive: it rescues a jewel that would otherwise sit in a drawer. What matters most is:
- Quality. The new band should be solid and sympathetic in style.
- Age of the conversion. Many conversions are themselves old, made in the early 20th century.
- Honesty. A good description says what the piece was, when it was converted and what is original.
We always describe conversions clearly in our listings. Browse our intaglio rings and seals and antique rings to find your own jewel with a second life.