The signet ring is one of the oldest jewels there is, and England is one of the best places in the world to find a genuine antique one. For buyers in Korea, where signet rings have become a favourite for both men and women, buying directly from a London dealer means real Georgian and Victorian gold, carved stone seals and family crests that cannot be found in a new ring. Here is how to choose one and buy it with confidence.
What is a signet ring?
A signet ring has a flat head, or bezel, engraved with a design that was pressed into hot wax to seal letters and documents. Because the design was meant to leave an impression, a true seal is engraved in reverse. Over time the signet became a mark of identity: a family crest, a monogram, a motto, or a classical figure chosen by its owner. Today it is worn simply because it is beautiful and personal.
Antique or vintage?
An antique signet ring is at least 100 years old, so made before about 1926. A vintage signet is usually 20 to 100 years old. Vintage signets are often heavier and plainer; antique ones are rarer and more individual, because many were made to order.
The main types of antique signet ring
Georgian gold signets (1714–1837)
Handmade, often with oval or octagonal heads set with carnelian, agate or glass intaglios, broad shoulders and a slim shank. Many were never hallmarked. Some were converted from fob seals that once hung from a watch chain.
Victorian signets (1837–1901)
Early and mid-Victorian rings often have stone-set heads with sculpted or scrolling shoulders, while late Victorian signets are more often solid gold, engraved directly with a crest or monogram, and fully hallmarked in Birmingham, Chester or London.
Seal and intaglio signets
An intaglio is a design carved into a stone, the opposite of a cameo, which is carved in relief. Classical heads, gods and animals carved in carnelian, agate or sardonyx were the height of fashion from the 18th century onwards, and some rings even hold genuinely ancient Roman intaglios in later gold mounts.
Family crests and mottoes
British and European signets were often engraved with a family crest, sometimes within a garter bearing a motto. An antique ring carrying someone else's crest is perfectly normal to wear; it is part of the ring's history. We would not recommend removing original engraving, but a blank head or uncarved stone can be engraved today with your own initials.
How to read hallmarks
British hallmarks are among the most informative in the world and can often date a ring to the year.
- Standard mark. 22ct and 18ct are the traditional high standards; 9ct and 15ct were introduced in 1854, and 15ct was abolished in 1932. A British 15ct signet is therefore Victorian, Edwardian or very early 1930s.
- Date letter. A letter in a particular font and shield shape gives the year of assay.
- Duty mark. The sovereign's head, used between 1784 and 1890, is a strong sign of an antique ring.
- Assay office. A leopard's head for London, an anchor for Birmingham, a sword and wheat sheaves for Chester.
Do not be put off by a ring without marks. Many Georgian and Victorian rings were never hallmarked; their gold is tested and the ring is dated by its style and construction. For more, see our guide to dating a gold signet ring.
How men and women wear signet rings
In England the traditional place for a gentleman's signet is the little finger of the non-writing hand, and many Victorian signets were made in small sizes for exactly that reason. Today the rules are relaxed: men wear signets on the little or ring finger, and women increasingly wear them stacked, on the little finger, or on a chain as a pendant. Smaller antique signets suit women's hands beautifully, while heavier vintage signets suit everyday wear.
Ring sizes and resizing
English listings give UK letter sizes, often with US sizes. As a rough guide for Korean sizes (호): UK J is about 9호, UK L about 12호, UK N about 14호, UK P about 17호, UK R about 19–20호 and UK T about 22호. Plain gold signets can usually be resized, and we offer complimentary resizing where feasible. Rings with stones or engraving on the shank need more care, and we will advise. Resized rings are final sale.
Buy direct, not through a middleman
Many antique signet rings sold in Asia are bought in England by agents and live-stream sellers and resold with a margin. Buying direct from a specialist dealer means a better price, honest dating, insured delivery and correct customs paperwork. If you can visit London, try Kempton (Sunbury Antiques Market), the indoor arcades on Portobello Road on a Saturday, and Grays in Mayfair on a weekday. Our guide to buying antique jewellery from England has the details.
Delivery, customs and payment for Korea
- Free insured delivery from London: DHL Express over £400, Royal Mail International Tracked below.
- Duty-free up to US$150; above that, 8% duty (0% for UK-origin pieces under the UK–Korea FTA with an origin declaration) plus 10% VAT.
- Enter your Personal Customs Clearance Code (개인통관고유부호) at checkout; the name must match.
- Accurate description and classification, antiques over 100 years declared as such, and full declared values.
- Discounts to help with duty and VAT, especially on higher-value and multi-piece orders. Just email us.
- Certificate of authenticity and information sheet with every ring; 30-day returns.
- Prices in won; pay by card, PayPal, Apple Pay, Google Pay or UnionPay.
Signet and seal rings available now
- Georgian Tassie locket ring, England, c.1820, with a hinged secret compartment
- Victorian 18ct gold banded agate signet, c.1870
- Victorian carnelian intaglio ring with a Roman emperor
- Polish ruby signet ring, 1921–1930
- Medieval French silver signet attributed to the Duhamel family, c.1480
- Berlin iron signet ring, c.1820
- Vintage gold amethyst intaglio ring, c.1940
Browse all signet rings, intaglio rings and antique men's rings.
Get in touch
Email info@ravensburyantiques.com; we are more than happy to help. Ask for a video in natural light, close-ups of the hallmarks or an impression of the seal, or tell us what you are looking for, such as a particular crest, stone or size, and we will search for it. A KakaoTalk channel is coming soon; for now, please email.
Frequently asked questions
Can a woman wear an antique signet ring?
Absolutely. Smaller Georgian and Victorian signets suit women's hands well, on the little finger, stacked, or worn as a pendant.
Is it all right to wear a ring with another family's crest?
Yes. It is part of the ring's history and is how most antique signets are worn today.
Can I add my own initials?
If the head or stone is blank, a hand engraver can cut your initials or crest. We would not remove original antique engraving.
What does 15ct gold mean?
In Britain 15ct was a legal standard only from 1854 to 1932, so a British 15ct signet is almost certainly Victorian or Edwardian.
Will I pay duty in Korea?
Not on personal imports up to US$150. Above that, expect 8% duty (0% for qualifying UK-origin pieces) plus 10% VAT; we offer discounts to help.