Georgian Red Enamel Firmament Ring
Offers close Sunday 15 November
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A French bague au firmament of the late 18th century, its plaque of rare red enamel scattered with rose-cut diamonds like stars in a night sky.Firmament rings were the height of Parisian fashion in the 1780s. By tradition, the style celebrated the long-awaited heirs of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, born in 1781 and 1785.Most firmament rings were made in deep blue, a few in green. Red is the rarest colour of all, and this is the first we have found in years of looking.The elongated octagonal plaque is enamelled in translucent red over an engine-turned ground, so the colour shimmers as it moves. Seven rose-cut diamonds are scattered across it in raised collets, the largest at the centre. The shoulders are chased with foliage, and the plaque curves gently around the finger for comfortable wear. Small rivets to the sides of the plaque are unusual, and may hint at a hidden compartment now sealed.A ring of real presence, and a true collector’s piece.Details: Late 18th century; France; 18K gold (French eagle’s head mark); red enamel; seven rose-cut diamonds, the largest approx. 7 × 5 × 4 mm; face 2.5 × 1.2 cm; 7.62g; UK K½, US 5½.Condition: Very good for its age. Minor enamel losses to the edges, with more wear to one side; evidence of resizing at the back of the band.
A French bague au firmament of the late 18th century, its plaque of rare red enamel scattered with rose-cut diamonds like stars in a night sky.
Firmament rings were the height of Parisian fashion in the 1780s. By tradition, the style celebrated the long-awaited heirs of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, born in 1781 and 1785.
Most firmament rings were made in deep blue, a few in green. Red is the rarest colour of all, and this is the first we have found in years of looking.
The elongated octagonal plaque is enamelled in translucent red over an engine-turned ground, so the colour shimmers as it moves. Seven rose-cut diamonds are scattered across it in raised collets, the largest at the centre. The shoulders are chased with foliage, and the plaque curves gently around the finger for comfortable wear. Small rivets to the sides of the plaque are unusual, and may hint at a hidden compartment now sealed.
A ring of real presence, and a true collector’s piece.
Details: Late 18th century; France; 18K gold (French eagle’s head mark); red enamel; seven rose-cut diamonds, the largest approx. 7 × 5 × 4 mm; face 2.5 × 1.2 cm; 7.62g; UK K½, US 5½.
Condition: Very good for its age. Minor enamel losses to the edges, with more wear to one side; evidence of resizing at the back of the band.
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