Antique silver ring with an early Islamic garnet intaglio engraved in Kufic script

Islamic Seal Rings: Kufic Script, Niello and the Seljuk Goldsmiths

For more than a thousand years, rings across the Islamic world have carried words. A ring was a signature, a prayer and a statement of identity, often all at once. Medieval Islamic rings are some of the most elegant and historically rich jewels a collector can own.

The seal ring

In the medieval Islamic world, a personal seal was essential. Engraved into a hard stone and set in a ring, it was pressed into wax or clay to authenticate documents and letters. Seal stones carried names, short phrases and devotional inscriptions, and they were often believed to offer protection as well.

Gold ring from Iran, 12th century
A gold ring from Iran, 12th century, decorated with incised designs. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (Open Access, public domain).

Kufic and later scripts

The earliest inscriptions are in Kufic, an angular, geometric form of Arabic script widely used for religious, administrative and personal inscriptions. Our early Islamic garnet intaglio, engraved around the 10th century, is a small octagonal garnet carved with a Kufic inscription, almost black in low light until it flashes crimson. Later seals often use flowing scripts such as Nastaʿlīq.

Some inscriptions are strikingly personal. We once sold an 8th to 9th century sardonyx seal engraved in Kufic with words translated as "Walid, remember death", a rare Islamic memento mori.

Seljuk silver ring with nielloSeljuk silver ring, detail of the niello
Our Seljuk silver ring with niello inlay.
Gold ring with seated lion, Iran, 12th century
A 12th-century gold ring with a seated lion, inlaid in black. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (Open Access, public domain).

Seljuk silver and niello

Under the Seljuk dynasty in the 11th and 12th centuries, silversmiths produced rings of bold, architectural form, decorated with scrolling arabesques filled with niello, a black metallic inlay that makes the pattern stand out against the bright silver. Our medieval Islamic silver ring has a rectangular bezel framed by four rounded bosses, with nielloed scrollwork continuing down the shoulders. Comparable rings are published in Islamic Rings and Gems: The Benjamin Zucker Collection (1987).

Agate and the aqeeq tradition

Agate, known as aqeeq, has been especially valued for seal rings in the Islamic world for centuries and is still worn today. Antique silver aqeeq rings with calligraphic seals connect medieval tradition with living practice.

Seljuk high carat gold ring with blue glass
A Seljuk ring in high carat gold, set with ancient blue glass.

Stones and mounts of different dates

As with Roman intaglios, Islamic seal stones were often reset over the centuries. A 10th-century stone may sit in a 17th-century mount. A good description will date each element separately and explain how the two came together.

Early Islamic garnet intaglio ring
A 10th-century garnet seal in a later silver mount.

Available now

Explore more in our intaglio and early jewellery collections.

Previous post
Next post

Submit your offer by Tuesday 11th November (23:59 GMT). We'll respond as soon as possible.