An antique engagement ring is a piece of history you wear every day. It was cut by hand, set by hand, and has already been loved by someone before you. More and more couples in China and Hong Kong are choosing antique and vintage rings from England and Europe instead of new ones, for their character, their old-cut diamonds and their story. This guide explains what to look for, which eras to know, how sizing and certificates work, and how to buy directly from London without paying a middleman.
A quick note on terms: antique means at least 100 years old; vintage usually means roughly 20 to 100 years old. Both are worth considering, and many of the most beautiful engagement rings sit near the line between them.
Why old-cut diamonds are different
Before modern machinery, diamonds were cut by eye and by hand, to make the most of candlelight and gaslight. The result is a softer, warmer, more individual sparkle than a modern brilliant: broad flashes of light rather than a fine glitter. Every old-cut stone is slightly different, which is exactly why collectors love them.
- Rose cut. A flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets, like an opening rosebud. Rose cuts are often thin and wide, so a modest stone looks generous on the finger. Common in Georgian and earlier jewellery, and revived in the Victorian and Edwardian periods.
- Old mine cut. A cushion-shaped stone with a high crown, a small table and a large open culet, the little facet at the base, visible through the top as a tiny circle. The classic Georgian and Victorian diamond.
- Old European cut. The round successor to the old mine cut, from the late 19th century into the 1930s. Rounder, with more fire, but still hand-finished, with a visible culet. The typical diamond of Edwardian and early Art Deco rings.
The eras to know
- Georgian (1714–1837). Rare and highly individual. Closed-back, often foiled settings, rose and old mine cut diamonds, high-carat gold and silver. Cluster rings and flower designs are typical. These rings need gentle wear and should be kept dry.
- Victorian (1837–1901). The great age of sentimental jewellery. Half-hoop rings set with five or seven stones, gypsy settings with stones sunk into the gold, snake rings symbolising eternal love, and clusters of every kind.
- Edwardian and Belle Époque (1901–c.1915). Platinum allowed fine, lace-like settings, millegrain edges and garland designs. Old European cut diamonds, often with sapphires or pearls. Among the most elegant engagement rings ever made.
- Art Nouveau (c.1890–1910). Flowing, natural forms, mostly French. Rarer as engagement rings, and wonderful when you find one.
- Art Deco (c.1920–1935). Geometric, crisp and modern, with platinum, calibré-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds framing a central diamond.
Why antique is a better story than lab-grown
Lab-grown diamonds are chemically diamonds, and they are cheap to produce in unlimited numbers. That is precisely the problem: there is nothing rare about them, and their resale value reflects it. An antique ring is the opposite. Its diamonds were mined and cut by hand generations ago; no new ones are being made, and the ring itself is one of a kind. It is also the most sustainable choice there is, because nothing new has been dug from the ground.
Most of all, an antique ring carries a story. When someone asks about your ring, you can tell them it was made in London in about 1880, or in Paris at the turn of the century. That is something no new ring can offer.
Sizing and free resizing
Every listing on our site gives the UK ring size, and we can tell you the equivalent in your local sizing. Most antique rings can be resized, and we offer complimentary resizing where it is feasible. Some designs, such as eternity rings set all the way round or very fragile Georgian settings, are better left as they are, and we will always tell you honestly. Please note that resized rings are final sale, so check the size carefully before we resize.
If you are planning a surprise, a ring borrowed from the person's jewellery box, measured by a local jeweller, is the most reliable guide.
Certificates and what to ask
Every piece we sell comes with a signed certificate of authenticity and an information sheet describing the ring, its date, materials and stones. Before buying any antique engagement ring, from us or anyone else, ask:
- Which parts are original, and has anything been replaced or repaired?
- What are the diamonds: their cut, approximate weight and colour?
- Is the ring hallmarked, and what do the marks say? (Many earlier rings are unmarked, which is perfectly normal.)
- Can I see a video in natural daylight? This shows the true colour of the stones and the gold.
Caring for an antique ring
An antique ring has already lasted a century or more, and with a little care it will last many more. Take it off for the gym, gardening and heavy housework. Have the claws and settings checked by a jeweller every year or two, especially on a ring you wear every day. Keep Georgian rings with foiled, closed-back settings away from water, including washing up and swimming, because moisture behind the stone can damage the foil. Store each ring separately so that diamonds do not scratch softer stones or gold.
Why buy directly from London
Many antique engagement rings sold in China and Hong Kong were bought in England or Europe by an agent, daigou or live-stream host and resold with a markup. Most European dealers do not ship to China or prepare the right paperwork, which is why that system exists. Buying directly from a specialist dealer who does gives you a better price, a direct line to the person who knows the ring, and proper insured shipping.
- Free insured delivery from London: DHL Express on orders over £400, Royal Mail International Tracked below.
- Correct customs paperwork, with accurate descriptions and full, honest declared values. Pieces over 100 years old can be declared as antiques.
- Discounts to help with import taxes, especially on higher-value rings. Just email us.
- 30-day returns (resized rings are final sale).
- Pay in your currency by card, PayPal, Apple Pay, Google Pay or UnionPay; Alipay is being added.
Import tax: mainland China and Hong Kong
In mainland China, personal parcels are assessed under the postal articles tax (行邮税): broadly 20% for diamonds, 13% for gold and other precious-metal items and 50% for other gem-set jewellery, with the category decided by customs. Our website may load slowly in mainland China; if so, email us and we will send photographs and videos directly. Hong Kong has no import duty and no VAT on jewellery, and DHL Express to Hong Kong is typically fast.
Buying in person
If you are visiting England, the Sunbury Antiques Market at Kempton Park (second and last Tuesday of every month), the indoor arcades of Portobello Road on Saturdays, and Grays Antiques in Mayfair on weekdays are all excellent places to look. Our showroom in Shoreditch, London, is open by appointment, and we would be delighted to show you a selection of engagement rings.
Rings available now
- Georgian rose cut diamond floral cluster ring, c.1780
- Antique rose cut diamond cluster ring, c.1900
- Edwardian platinum sapphire and diamond ring, c.1910
- Art Nouveau diamond solitaire, Paris, c.1900
- French Art Deco ruby, diamond and pearl cluster ring, c.1920
Browse all antique and vintage engagement rings and antique diamond rings.
Get in touch
We are more than happy to help you find the right ring. Email info@ravensburyantiques.com to ask for a video in natural light, for advice on sizing or customs, or to tell us what you are looking for: an old mine cut solitaire, a Victorian half hoop, a particular budget. Many of the best rings sell before they reach the website, and we are glad to look out for you.
Frequently asked questions
Is an antique engagement ring strong enough for daily wear?
Many are, especially Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco rings with secure settings. Georgian rings with foiled, closed backs should be kept dry and worn more gently.
Can you resize an antique engagement ring?
Usually, yes. We offer complimentary resizing where it is feasible. Resized rings are final sale.
Do antique diamonds come with certificates?
Every ring we sell comes with our signed certificate of authenticity and an information sheet describing it.
Will I pay import tax on an engagement ring?
In mainland China, personal parcels are usually assessed under the postal articles tax, with diamonds broadly at 20%. Hong Kong charges no import duty or VAT on jewellery.