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A spectacular and highly refined 19th-century diamond ring, centred with a natural, unheated Burmese ruby cabochon weighing approximately 1.2 carats. Dating to circa 1870, this ring belongs to the Second Empire period of France and was most likely made in France, though the mount also closely relates to rare openwork diamond rings produced in the Ottoman Empire during the same period.The setting is extraordinarily intricate; an openwork floral mount of remarkable delicacy, entirely hand-built and set throughout with around fifty rose cut diamonds. This type of pierced, diamond-set construction is exceptionally scarce and seldom encountered today. The diamonds taper gracefully into a fluted gold shank, a thoughtful design feature that ensures comfort on the finger despite the complexity and visual drama of the mount. When worn, the ring has a striking architectural presence; light passes through the openwork gold and diamonds, creating a vivid, almost sculptural effect. It is, quite simply, a showstopper.At the centre sits a richly coloured ruby cabochon of superb quality. Accompanied by a laboratory report confirming it as a natural, untreated Burma ruby, the stone displays a vibrant, saturated hue with very few inclusions. Its gently irregular, domed form is entirely consistent with 19th-century Burmese rubies, which were typically sent to India for cutting. Prior to the 20th century, Indian gem cutters prioritised weight retention over symmetry, resulting in cabochons that preserve the natural character of the stone rather than striving for perfect uniformity.The ring is stamped with a French owl control mark, indicating a fineness of 18K gold. Remarkably, all of the rose cut diamonds remain intact; there are no losses whatsoever, an exceptional and rare survival for a ring of this age and intricacy.The ring weighs 3.65g and measures UK size N 1/2; US size 7. The ruby cabochon measures approximately 6 × 6 × 3mm. Condition is excellent overall, with only light, age-appropriate wear and no losses to the diamond setting.
A spectacular and highly refined 19th-century diamond ring, centred with a natural, unheated Burmese ruby cabochon weighing approximately 1.2 carats. Dating to circa 1870, this ring belongs to the Second Empire period of France and was most likely made in France, though the mount also closely relates to rare openwork diamond rings produced in the Ottoman Empire during the same period.
The setting is extraordinarily intricate; an openwork floral mount of remarkable delicacy, entirely hand-built and set throughout with around fifty rose cut diamonds. This type of pierced, diamond-set construction is exceptionally scarce and seldom encountered today. The diamonds taper gracefully into a fluted gold shank, a thoughtful design feature that ensures comfort on the finger despite the complexity and visual drama of the mount. When worn, the ring has a striking architectural presence; light passes through the openwork gold and diamonds, creating a vivid, almost sculptural effect. It is, quite simply, a showstopper.
At the centre sits a richly coloured ruby cabochon of superb quality. Accompanied by a laboratory report confirming it as a natural, untreated Burma ruby, the stone displays a vibrant, saturated hue with very few inclusions. Its gently irregular, domed form is entirely consistent with 19th-century Burmese rubies, which were typically sent to India for cutting. Prior to the 20th century, Indian gem cutters prioritised weight retention over symmetry, resulting in cabochons that preserve the natural character of the stone rather than striving for perfect uniformity.
The ring is stamped with a French owl control mark, indicating a fineness of 18K gold. Remarkably, all of the rose cut diamonds remain intact; there are no losses whatsoever, an exceptional and rare survival for a ring of this age and intricacy.
The ring weighs 3.65g and measures UK size N 1/2; US size 7. The ruby cabochon measures approximately 6 × 6 × 3mm. Condition is excellent overall, with only light, age-appropriate wear and no losses to the diamond setting.
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