17th-Century Emerald and Diamond Ring
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This richly ornate rosette ring is a fine and rare example of late 17th-century jewellery, dating to circa 1680 (probably Spain). It is composed in high-karat gold and set with a central rose cut diamond surrounded by 14 deep green table-cut emeralds in cut-down collet settings.The vivid green emeralds are Colombian in origin, and their abundance is characteristic of Spanish Iberian work of this period; Spain's colonial control of the Colombian and Peruvian mines in the 17th century meant that emeralds became a defining feature of Iberian court jewellery. This piece exemplifies that tradition, with a striking radial symmetry that evokes the sunbursts and floral forms so typical of the Baroque.The cluster is backed with foil, enhancing the stones’ depth and brilliance, and mounted on a fluted, enamelled gallery: black enamel inlay fills the deeply grooved underside, punctuated with tiny white dots - a highly specific form of decorative treatment seen in Western European jewels of the second half of the 17th century.The shoulders continue the ornate detailing, chased with stylised flame or foliate motifs and delicately inlaid with black enamel. Remarkably, the enamel remains almost entirely intact; exceptionally rare for jewels of this age, and a testament to its careful past ownership.The central rose cut diamond, though not original to the piece, is an antique replacement, likely set in the 18th or early 19th century. It is sympathetically chosen and offers a lively focal point in contrast to the surrounding green stones.The ring is unmarked as expected with rings of this age, but tests as solid 18K gold.Measurements:
- UK ring size P / US size 7.5
- Weight: 6.36g
- Central rose cut diamond: approx. 4mm diameter
Condition:Excellent and highly unusual survivorship. The enamelwork is near pristine, with only very light wear. The emeralds show minor abrasions typical of their age and cut, visible only under magnification. The cluster is well-preserved, sturdy, and fully wearable. The ring’s structure remains intact with no repairs to the collets or shoulders.References:Very similar rings can be seen in the Alice & Louis Koch Collection in the Swiss National Museum (items 780–782), where similar cluster forms, enamelled galleries, and Iberian workmanship are documented. A comparable example in the British Museum with both emerald and diamonds was given by King James II to his chaplain between 1685-1688 (Accession Number: M.10-1970).
This richly ornate rosette ring is a fine and rare example of late 17th-century jewellery, dating to circa 1680 (probably Spain). It is composed in high-karat gold and set with a central rose cut diamond surrounded by 14 deep green table-cut emeralds in cut-down collet settings.
The vivid green emeralds are Colombian in origin, and their abundance is characteristic of Spanish Iberian work of this period; Spain's colonial control of the Colombian and Peruvian mines in the 17th century meant that emeralds became a defining feature of Iberian court jewellery. This piece exemplifies that tradition, with a striking radial symmetry that evokes the sunbursts and floral forms so typical of the Baroque.
The cluster is backed with foil, enhancing the stones’ depth and brilliance, and mounted on a fluted, enamelled gallery: black enamel inlay fills the deeply grooved underside, punctuated with tiny white dots - a highly specific form of decorative treatment seen in Western European jewels of the second half of the 17th century.
The shoulders continue the ornate detailing, chased with stylised flame or foliate motifs and delicately inlaid with black enamel. Remarkably, the enamel remains almost entirely intact; exceptionally rare for jewels of this age, and a testament to its careful past ownership.
The central rose cut diamond, though not original to the piece, is an antique replacement, likely set in the 18th or early 19th century. It is sympathetically chosen and offers a lively focal point in contrast to the surrounding green stones.
The ring is unmarked as expected with rings of this age, but tests as solid 18K gold.
Measurements:
- UK ring size P / US size 7.5
- Weight: 6.36g
- Central rose cut diamond: approx. 4mm diameter
Condition:
Excellent and highly unusual survivorship. The enamelwork is near pristine, with only very light wear. The emeralds show minor abrasions typical of their age and cut, visible only under magnification. The cluster is well-preserved, sturdy, and fully wearable. The ring’s structure remains intact with no repairs to the collets or shoulders.
References:
Very similar rings can be seen in the Alice & Louis Koch Collection in the Swiss National Museum (items 780–782), where similar cluster forms, enamelled galleries, and Iberian workmanship are documented. A comparable example in the British Museum with both emerald and diamonds was given by King James II to his chaplain between 1685-1688 (Accession Number: M.10-1970).
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